Health | Civil Eats https://civileats.com/category/health/ Daily News and Commentary About the American Food System Tue, 23 Sep 2025 23:16:33 +0000 en-US hourly 1 After the Eaton Fire, a Los Angeles Community Garden Rebuilds https://civileats.com/2025/09/22/after-the-eaton-fire-a-los-angeles-community-garden-rebuilds/ https://civileats.com/2025/09/22/after-the-eaton-fire-a-los-angeles-community-garden-rebuilds/#respond Mon, 22 Sep 2025 08:01:31 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68805 A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox. An acrid smell floated on the breeze amid the calls and caws of mockingbirds, finches, and crows at the two-and-a-half-acre Altadena Community Garden, now an expanse of mostly empty […]

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A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox.

Five months after the second-most destructive fire in California’s history, gardeners in the hillside town of Altadena were hard at work remediating what had once been a community paradise.

An acrid smell floated on the breeze amid the calls and caws of mockingbirds, finches, and crows at the two-and-a-half-acre Altadena Community Garden, now an expanse of mostly empty soil.

Joe Nagy, a white baseball cap pulled low over his sunglasses, explained how gardeners hope oyster mushrooms will help bring the 52-year-old landmark back to life: by absorbing and clearing potential toxins from the soil.

“Some people might argue we didn’t really need to do all this, but the big picture is, we are right next to really toxic burn zones,” said Nagy, who is president of the nonprofit that operates the popular 120-member institution.

Remediation at Altadena Community Garden (Photo credit: Jennifer Oldham)

The Altadena Community Garden is now undergoing remediation. (Photo credit: Jennifer Oldham)

In January, the Eaton Fire burned through this northern Los Angeles suburb, destroying nearly 10,000 homes, businesses, and landmarks. The fire didn’t char the garden, but members worried that lead and other airborne pollutants had settled in the soil.

In the aftermath, Nagy and the community garden members were left with a quandary: How would they remediate after such an unprecedented disaster? The decision was made more difficult by the fact that many of the garden’s 82 plots, and a trellis-shaded common area, remained unscathed; one even had cabbage ready for harvest.

In April, Nagy said, gardeners donned protective equipment and removed tools and other personal items from their plots. Workers hauled away raised beds, then scraped off more than 3 inches of topsoil. Next, trucks dumped 141 tons of compost on top. The nonprofit’s members added teas, fertilizer, and worms. Finally, in June, they amended the mixture with oyster mushroom mycelium and covered it with straw. The fragile compound required constant watering to keep it alive in the hot summer sun.

Altadena gardeners (from left): Mary McGilvray, vice president of the nonprofit that operates the garden; Ardra Grubbs, a garden member for 50 years; gardener Maria Zendejas, who makes soap from wild calendula flowers bordering the garden; Joe Nagy, president of the garden's nonprofit; and Kurt Zubriskie, a member for nearly three years. (Photo credit: Jennifer Oldham)

Altadena gardeners (from left): Mary McGilvray, vice president of the nonprofit that operates the garden; Ardra Grubbs, a garden member for 50 years; Maria Zendejas, who makes soap from wild calendula flowers bordering the garden; Joe Nagy, president of the garden’s nonprofit; and Kurt Zubriskie, a member for nearly three years. (Photo credit: Jennifer Oldham)

It was a lot of work, requiring scores of hours of labor, a demonstration of the strong bonds among gardeners who find solace in this place. Many have tended this ground for decades, growing vegetables, herbs, and fruit year-round. They’ve shared recipes, seeds, and laughs here. One community gardener makes wine from Concord grapes that still crown a chain-link fence surrounding the garden. Another crafts soap out of calendula, a perennial daisy that blooms along the perimeter.

The gardeners include African Americans, Cameroonians, Gabonese, El Salvadorans, Eastern Europeans, and Filipinos, among others. The city itself, established at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, is home to generations of Black families, who comprise nearly two-thirds of the households within the Eaton Fire perimeter. More than half of the Altadena Community Garden’s members lost homes to the blaze.

For Mary McGilvray, vice president of the nonprofit that operates Altadena Community Garden, the remediation of the soil has given her a renewed sense of purpose upon her retirement.

“This is one of the most beautiful places in the late afternoons when the sun hits those mountains,” she said. “One of the first times I was here by myself, the mountains were purple, and these Latino men were riding their horses in their full silver regalia down the street and into the park here—and there was a guy sitting here playing the banjo, and it was absolutely magical.”

‘One of the Hardest Things Human Beings Have to Do’

African Americans established the garden in the early 1970s when local homeowners, equestrians, tennis enthusiasts, and politicians agreed to convert the site of a former military academy into a leafy haven. With tennis courts and a horse arena nearby, Black residents cultivated a few small plots, and Los Angeles County installed water lines for their use.

The space, which is both gender and politically diverse, became so coveted that some members would drive for miles to weed and water their patch of ground. In July, even with remediation underway, the waiting list held 133 names. It can take as many as three years to receive a plot.

Many plots belong to two or more gardeners, who often step in to nurture each other’s fruits and vegetables when a partner goes on vacation, gets knee surgery, or is buried in work.

“Gardeners are doing one of the hardest things that human beings have to do: share land,” said Omar Brownson, executive director of the Los Angeles Community Garden Council, which counts about a third of the region’s 150 gardens as members. “Think about all the conflict around the world. Most of it is around sharing land.”

At the Altadena garden’s 2023 summer picnic. (Photo courtesy of Altadena Community Garden)

At the Altadena garden’s 2023 summer picnic. (Photo courtesy of Altadena Community Garden)

In Altadena, even residents who aren’t members of the community garden eagerly await its reopening, particularly its famed summer picnic. “I had a wonderful experience during the last picnic when we had the public in here,” recounted Kurt Zubriskie, who is considered a “new member,” having belonged for a mere three years. “I had a fair field of strawberries, there were some kids over there stealing strawberries, and it was just wonderful—they were so happy and joyous.”

The event won’t happen this year, as gardeners patiently remediate the soil. If it tests negative for toxins later this year, the nonprofit will install a sprinkler system and, if all goes well, reopen by early next year. The group is still raising some of the money they estimate they will need to finish remediation, as well as building an office on site.

“As soon as money comes in, it goes out,” said Silvera Grant, a past president of the garden, whom members credit with helping to transform the institution from “one of privilege” to one where access is equal for all.

The Jamaican-born grandfather shares his space with several others, including Alan Freeman, a retired theater teacher and playwright. Grant invited Freeman, who belongs to his church, to join the garden about a dozen years ago.

“I brought flowers to his garden. He doesn’t really like flowers because he can’t eat them—but I like a little bit of color,” Freeman said as he sat next to Grant and other gardeners around a concrete picnic table, as purple blooms drifted down from a jacaranda tree.

Both men are taking advantage of this downtime to help other members expand a fruit orchard outside the garden’s fence, where the public will be able to pick plums, apricots, avocados, and more, for free. An education program is also in the works, as is a community crop swap and food share.

For now, gardeners are working to bring back what was lost. When the soil is ready, Freeman will plant flowers, and Grant will sow pepper seeds among them, an embodiment of the longstanding communal ethos of the garden. “When I first came to the garden,” Grant recalled, “a gardener said to me, ‘Silvera, when you plant, you plant for yourself, and you plant for everyone else.’”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/09/22/after-the-eaton-fire-a-los-angeles-community-garden-rebuilds/feed/ 0 What’s at Stake for School Food-Literacy Programs https://civileats.com/2025/09/17/whats-at-stake-for-school-food-literacy-programs/ https://civileats.com/2025/09/17/whats-at-stake-for-school-food-literacy-programs/#comments Wed, 17 Sep 2025 08:01:06 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68754 This is the first in a series of stories covering the end of SNAP-Ed, which ran for more than 30 years, and how it will impact American communities. “Food education takes it to another level,” Leary says. “I’ve done robotics, and that draws in a bunch of kids. I’ve done coding. Some kids really love […]

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This is the first in a series of stories covering the end of SNAP-Ed, which ran for more than 30 years, and how it will impact American communities.

Rita Elaine Leary has been a middle school science and social sciences teacher for 36 years—31 of them in Chicago’s public schools. For the last four years, she’s incorporated a food education curriculum into her classes at Ashburn Community Elementary School. She has never seen her students so engaged as they taste spice mixes to understand West Africa’s influence on Spain, prepare Ukrainian dumplings to appreciate the culture of that war-torn country, and bake bread to learn about cellular respiration.

“Food education takes it to another level,” Leary says. “I’ve done robotics, and that draws in a bunch of kids. I’ve done coding. Some kids really love coding. We’ve written science musicals. That gets some kids. But food? Pretty much every single attempt has been a win.”

This school year will be her fifth time using curriculum from food education nonprofit Pilot Light, she says, “and I’m not going to stop.”

Pilot Light is the kind of program that is hard to argue with, bringing food literacy into schools to fire up core lessons for students and helping establish healthy eating skills. It is well-funded through fundraising galas, foundations, and corporate sponsorships, making it a rare bright spot amid dwindling support for programs nationwide working to address childhood obesity—which impacts nearly 20 percent of children and adolescents—and other nutritional challenges.

As the school year ramps up, significant changes are coming to school food literacy.

The largest is to the federal Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program-Education (SNAP-Ed) program, which has provided nutrition education, cooking demonstrations, and workshops to 90 million low-income Americans, mostly children, for the last 30 years. SNAP-Ed will be terminated on October 1, a casualty of the Republicans’ One Big Beautiful Bill.

Research have consistently demonstrated that SNAP-Ed participants improve their diets, consuming more fruits and vegetables and better managing their food resources. On the executive side, the Trump administration has made cuts to other food programs that supported school nutrition and education.

Civil Eats spoke to school food literacy programs that exemplify different levels of impact, to learn how each is faring and how funding cuts are rippling through the food system.

FoodCorps: Decimated but Determined

FoodCorps, founded in 2010, is a national service organization that teaches students about food, nutrition, and gardening. Meant as a scalable response to childhood obesity and diet-related disease epidemics, it has so far trained 1,500 service members to teach nutrition education and gardening in schools. It acts as a kind of Peace Corps for school food in the U.S., and its teachers earn a modest stipend for one year of service.

FoodCorps received most of its grant funding from AmeriCorps, which was decimated in April when the Trump administration ended nearly $400 million in AmeriCorps grants. FoodCorps has had to cut its budget by $13 million—more than 40 percent—according to a statement from Co-founder and CEO Curt Ellis and President Rachel Willis.

The organization has continued its work this school year, though at a smaller scale, partnering with schools in eight states, where 50 FoodCorps members are continuing to give food and garden education to public schoolchildren. That’s down from 162 FoodCorps members last year, working in 220 schools and school districts across 16 states and Washington, D.C.

FoodCorps says it is developing new approaches, including working with people who are “embedded in the systems of food and education we seek to change.” In addition to professional development support to teachers, it will offer a new 20-person annual fellowship. “Our work will look different in the coming school year . . . and we know the transition may be bumpy. But FoodCorps has faced hardships before. We’re committed to seeing this one through for the children at the center of our work.”

The organization’s impact, however, transcends direct work with kids, since many of its passionate garden and nutrition advocates go on to become food system leaders in their communities.

“We know the transition may be bumpy. But we have faced hardships before. We’re committed to seeing this one through for the children at the center of our work.”

“We often talk about how in order to change the food system, you need to ensure students know how to cook and garden,” says Sunny Baker, senior director of programs and policy at the National Farm to School Network. “Those FoodCorps service members are invaluable. And a lot of times, the [FoodCorps role] turned into paid positions in districts.”

For example, Janelle Manzano, who is now the farm-to-school coordinator at the San Diego Unified School District, was a FoodCorps service member in Oakland in 2017. Ally Mrachek was a service member in Fayetteville, Arkansas, before becoming a child nutrition director at Fayetteville Public Schools. (She’s now a farm-to-school consultant at LunchAssist.) Others have gone on to do important food policy work at the state level, like Kendal Chavez, who is New Mexico Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham’s food policy advisor.

“FoodCorps is a funnel of talent for public schools in America,” Baker says. “Their alumni are some powerful, amazing leaders.”

Charlie Cart 2: Aubrey Hinton, a garden and cooking teacher and garden coordinator at Pomeroy Elementary in Santa Clara, California, makes strawberry almond milk smoothies in class. (Photo courtesy of The Charlie Cart Project)

Aubrey Hinton, a cooking teacher and garden coordinator at Pomeroy Elementary in Santa Clara, California, makes strawberry almond milk smoothies in class. (Photo credit: Ana Homonnay, courtesy of The Charlie Cart Project)

The Charlie Cart Project: Fine—At Least for Now

The Charlie Cart Project sells fully stocked mobile kitchens and a curriculum to go with them, as well as ongoing training and support to teachers. Federal funding cuts don’t directly impact the Charlie Cart Project because the nonprofit doesn’t apply for those grants.

Roughly half of its funding comes from cart sales; foundations, individual donors, and corporate sponsors provide the rest. But the federal cuts may hurt some districts’ ability to buy Charlie Carts. In recent weeks, the organization has heard from four separate people that they won’t be able to purchase Charlie Carts this fall due to funding cuts, according to founder Carolyn Federman.

“It seems so silly, but I was like, if we can’t bring the kids to the kitchen, let’s bring the kitchen to the kids.”

Federman launched the Charlie Cart Project in 2016, after working as director of Alice Water’s Edible Schoolyard Project, in Berkeley. She also taught basic culinary education at Martin Luther King, Jr. Middle School, the project’s main location, where her children attended school. She always had to lug food, knives, cutting boards, and other cooking equipment to class, which gave her the idea for the mobile kitchens.

“It seems so silly, but I was like, ‘If we can’t bring the kids to the kitchen, let’s bring the kitchen to the kids,’” she says.

She designed a cart that could be an all-in-one kitchen, complete with the basic appliances needed to lead a cooking lesson: a small induction cooktop, a griddle, a toaster oven, a Vitamix blender, and a gray-water rinse station. A teacher—or librarian, food educator, or parent volunteer—could roll the cart into a room and plug it in. She named it Charlie Cart, after the 1860s Chuck Wagon.

Charlie Carts cost $14,000 with shipping and include access to a K-5 curriculum with 54 lessons that can be adapted for older kids or adults. The seasonal recipes align with Common Core educational standards. Today, there are 625 Charlie Carts at schools, libraries, food banks, and even Veterans Affairs sites in 47 states.

In Charleston, South Carolina, the Lowcountry Food Bank partnered with the local library system to buy five Charlie Carts for area libraries. Dana Mitchel, director of community health and nutrition at the food bank, says SNAP-Ed funding paid for the initial training for librarians. SNAP-Ed is essentially a national obesity intervention program, designed to prevent food-related illnesses like diabetes and heart disease by encouraging healthy eating habits.

“Just seeing kids and families feel more confident working with food is really very exciting,” says Mitchel. “The stories we get are, ‘I didn’t know I could have my child work so safely and productively in the kitchen. I’m excited to be with them in the kitchen now.’”

Federman saw a big uptick in libraries buying Charlie Carts during the pandemic. “Libraries have way more flexibility than schools and can stand up programs super fast,” she says.

Pilot Light 1: Pilot Light Executive Director Alexandria DeSorbo-Quinn serves yogurt parfaits to Chicago-area preschoolers. The students shared with the class why they chose their ingredients, sparking conversations about how each choice reflected their own tastes, family traditions, and cultural influences. (Photo credit: Therese Pudela)

Pilot Light Executive Director Alexandria DeSorbo-Quinn serves yogurt parfaits to Chicago-area preschoolers. (Photo credit: Therese Pudela, courtesy of Pilot Light)

Pilot Light: Dodging a Bullet

Chicago-based Pilot Light was loosely formed in 2010 by four celebrity chefs who were inspired to teach culinary education in public schools after one of them attended First Lady Michelle Obama’s “Chefs Move! to Schools” events.

Pilot Light won’t be affected by SNAP-Ed’s elimination. The organization was already wrapping up a USDA Farm to School grant before funding for that program was cancelled, and the bulk of its revenue comes from fundraising galas, corporate sponsorships, foundations, donations, and professional curriculum development for school districts.

Like the Charlie Cart Project, Pilot Light recruits and supports teachers who are already employed by school districts and who want to incorporate food education into their lesson plans. Each year, they offer fellowships to 25 teachers, who receive one-on-one coaching and professional development from Pilot Light staff and learn from experts in food education, health, and agriculture. The teachers also get a $2,000 stipend and some funding for supplies and chef visits.

Pilot Light was already wrapping up a USDA Farm to School grant before funding for that program was cancelled, and the bulk of its revenue comes from fundraising galas, corporate sponsorships, foundations, donations, and professional curriculum development for school districts.

Pilot Light created its own food education standards with a panel of experts in 2018, with eight focus areas, including the environment and health. The standards were updated in July to reflect teacher feedback and real classroom experiences. They are broad enough that teachers can tailor the standards to their subject area and student body.

“You can teach any subject through food,” says Executive Director Alexandria DeSorbo-Quinn. “I’ve seen students write poems about a dish that’s been passed down in their family for generations. Suddenly, they’re not just learning about metaphor or structure; they’re connecting language to their identity and their history, all through food. That’s when their eyes light up.”

The Pilot Light curriculum requires students to complete a food advocacy project. In recent years, students in a sixth grade science class in Chicago submitted a city ordinance to ban plastic foam at Chicago restaurants, even holding a press conference at City Hall.

Many teachers go on to serve as mentors to new Pilot Light fellows or present at conferences.

“We invest heavily in that first year, and they keep impacting their students year over year,” DeSorbo-Quinn says. “They become our greatest champions and ambassadors.”

Edible Schoolyard 3: Student prepares a recipe in a kitchen class from the Edible Schoolyard Project. (Photo credit: Fox Nakai)

A student prepares a recipe in a kitchen class from the Edible Schoolyard Project. (Photo credit: Fox Nakai, courtesy of Edible Schoolyard)

Edible Schoolyard: Still Going Strong

The Edible Schoolyard Project has similarly avoided cuts, as it relies on foundations, grants, and community support, though it does receive some funding from the state of California.

The project has been a model for all school food education programs since Alice Waters (also a Civil Eats advisor) launched the organization in 1995. At its height, the program had seven schoolyard projects around the country. Today, it operates a program in Stockton, California, and its original location at Martin Luther King, Jr. Middle School in Berkeley is still flourishing.

The Edible Schoolyard Project has similarly avoided cuts, as it relies on foundations, grants, and community support, though it does receive some funding from the state of California.

Each year, teachers take over 1,000 middle school students into its 1-acre organic garden to learn about science, math, history, and poetry while also soaking up the importance of nourishment, stewardship, and community. Its Stockton location is a 6-acre working farm that hosts field trips and community events. It has a community garden program, with 40 families cultivating their own plots, and a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program that provides 130 bags of fresh produce for low-income community members every week.

To date, Edible Schoolyard has inspired 6,500 like-minded programs across the globe—in 47 U.S. states and 75 countries.

The nonprofit’s website is a hub of information for global educators, gardeners, and chefs who want to incorporate gardening and cooking into their lesson plans or programming. It runs free online curriculum and virtual learning experiences such as grant-writing tips and how to integrate academic standards. The downloadable lesson plans are aligned with Common Core standards and include worksheets.

‘Radical Collaboration’

Culinary literacy groups will continue to need private funding sources as federal funding cuts become permanent or long lasting, creating ongoing downstream impacts. The loss of federal funding could strain state, county, and local governments, which may make it harder to run programs like the Charlie Cart Project, Food Corps, and Pilot Light, all of which rely on those partnerships.

“People are going to have to make hard decisions,” says Mitchel, from the LowCountry Food Bank.

Despite the cuts, these nonprofits say they’ll continue the work they are doing in some way, shape, or form. “People who want to do this work find a way,” says Federman of the Charlie Cart Project. “They know it’s really important.”

Many organizations are also finding support with one another. Ashley Rouse, the Edible Schoolyard Project’s executive director, says her organization has been joining a monthly call with peers across the field. One possibility that’s come up is smaller nonprofits with similar missions joining forces and absorbing one another. “How do we shrink and grow?” she asks.

Rouse describes these sessions as “radical collaboration.”

“In moments like this,” she says, “it feels more important than ever to come together, share what we have, and support one another so that the impact and growth we’ve seen in edible education can continue.”

Due to an editing error, Rachel Willis was listed as Food Corps co-founder. This article has been updated to reflect her title as president of Food Corps.

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/09/17/whats-at-stake-for-school-food-literacy-programs/feed/ 1 EPA Approves Four New Pesticides That Qualify as PFAS https://civileats.com/2025/09/08/epa-approves-four-new-pesticides-that-qualify-as-pfas/ https://civileats.com/2025/09/08/epa-approves-four-new-pesticides-that-qualify-as-pfas/#comments Mon, 08 Sep 2025 08:01:32 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68545 During a press conference at Sawyer Farms, a local news reporter told the duo that Texas ranchers are worried about “forever chemical” contamination caused by biosolids used for fertilizer and asked what the Trump administration was doing about it. Because they do not break down, the chemicals accumulate in the environment and can cause serious […]

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In April, Secretary of Agriculture Brooke Rollins and Secretary of Health and Human Services (HHS) Robert F. Kennedy Jr. went to Texas to tour farms and agriculture research facilities and learn “how America’s farmers are working to Make America Healthy Again,” according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) press release.

During a press conference at Sawyer Farms, a local news reporter told the duo that Texas ranchers are worried about “forever chemical” contamination caused by biosolids used for fertilizer and asked what the Trump administration was doing about it. Because they do not break down, the chemicals accumulate in the environment and can cause serious health harms.

Both Rollins and Kennedy said they were concerned about farm soils being contaminated with the chemicals, called per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS—commonly referred to as forever chemicals. “We want to end the production of PFAS,” Kennedy said. “Ultimately, I think that’s what we have to do. There’s a lot of pressure on the industry now to stop using it.”

“We want to end the production of PFAS. There’s a lot of pressure on the industry now to stop using it.”

It wasn’t clear which industry Kennedy was referring to, but the pesticide industry, in fact, is moving in the opposite direction—with the help of the Trump administration that Kennedy serves in. Between April and June of this year, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) proposed the approval of four new pesticides that qualify as PFAS based on a definition that is commonly used around the world and supported by experts.

“What we’re seeing right now is the new generation of pesticides, and it’s genuinely frightening,” said Nathan Donley, the environmental health science director at the Center for Biological Diversity, who published a paper last year showing pesticides are increasingly fluorinated. Fluorination is the process that creates PFAS. “At a time when most industries are transitioning away from PFAS, the pesticide industry is doubling down. They’re firmly in the business of selling PFAS.”

Because the EPA uses a different, narrower definition of PFAS, the agency does not categorize the new pesticides as falling into that category. And based on their chemical structure, they are likely not as persistent or harmful as the widely used PFOS and PFOA that have wreaked havoc on farms to date. But they still are likely to persist for decades or even centuries, and Americans are already being widely exposed to them. And experts say the approvals come at a time when the administration is also rolling back other policies that were beginning to address all forever chemical contamination in the food supply.

On August 13, Public Employees for Environmental Responsibility (PEER), a federal environmental policy watchdog organization, sent Kennedy a petition asking the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) Commission to take several concrete actions on forever chemicals.

PEER recommends that the EPA adopt the broader, widely recognized definition of PFAS, and then ban the use of pesticides that contain them. The organization also wants the Trump administration to stop the application of fertilizers that are often contaminated with PFAS. While Biden’s EPA released an initial assessment of PFAS in fertilizer made from biosolids in January, Republicans in Congress recently tried to stop that assessment from being finalized or used to create future regulations.

PEER also wants the agency to reinstate the limits on PFAS in drinking water that it rolled back in May. While many of the actions don’t fall under Kennedy’s purview, Rollins and EPA Administrator Lee Zeldin are also members of the MAHA commission, and they could make headway on these changes.

“This administration is incredibly hypocritical, and we wanted to point that out to them.”

“This administration is incredibly hypocritical, and we wanted to point that out to them,” said Kyla Bennett, the science policy director at PEER. “The MAHA Commission is claiming that PFAS is dangerous, and we’re just pointing out to them three very simple things that they could do to get PFAS out of our food.”

An EPA spokesperson ignored a detailed list of questions from Civil Eats related to the proposed pesticide approvals and instead sent a broad statement that included a link to a list of actions Zeldin announced in April to “combat PFAS contamination.” The spokesperson said that the administration’s decision to overturn the drinking water standards for four PFAS was based on a “regulatory error” during the Biden administration and that the current EPA is starting a new review to reconsider the limits.

HHS did not respond to a request for comment.

Four New Forever Pesticides

In May, Zeldin announced structural changes at the EPA. In addition to cutting some offices and establishing new departments, he shifted more than 130 staff members to the Office of Chemical Safety and Pollution Prevention (OCSPP) “to work directly on the backlog of over 504 new chemicals in review,” an action high on the pesticide industry’s wish lists.

Under the Trump administration, the OCSPP is being run by three industry insiders. Nancy Beck, formerly an executive at the American Chemistry Council, who previously pushed the EPA to weaken rules on PFAS in consumer products; Lynn Ann Dekleva, a former DuPont executive; and Kyle Kunkler, who has lobbied against pesticide regulations for the American Soybean Association.

Over the past several months, decisions on new chemicals have picked up speed, including on those with potential PFAS characteristics.

Back in April, the agency proposed approving a Syngenta chemical that targets pests called nematodes for crops including Romaine lettuce and soybeans.

Then, in June, it proposed three more approvals in rapid succession: an herbicide made by Bayer for corn and soybeans; a Syngenta field-crop insecticide that can be applied as a seed treatment; and an herbicide from BASF for oranges, apples, peanuts, and other crops.

At the Center for Biological Diversity, Donley and his team analyzed all four and determined that, based on their chemical structure, all are PFAS, according to the definition created by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD).

That worries Donley because, he said, the definition was based on “the chemical components that make something incredibly persistent.” While the new pesticides are shorter-chain molecules compared to the other longer-chain molecules, they could still stick around in the environment for decades or even centuries due to their durable carbon-fluorine bonds and can break down into other chemicals like trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) that also persist.

“All PFAS are persistent. That is one of the things that they all have in common.”

“All PFAS are persistent. That is one of the things that they all have in common,” PEER’s Bennett said.

Syngenta and BASF did not respond to questions about the new chemicals qualifying as PFAS and whether that should prompt concerns around persistence or potential human health impacts. A Bayer spokesperson sent an emailed statement that pointed to the fact that its new herbicide, called diflufenican, is “not a PFAS substance” according to the EPA.

“We stand behind the safety of our products, which have been tested extensively and thoroughly reviewed by regulators,” the statement read. “Diflufenican will be an important weed-control tool for farmers and has been thoroughly reviewed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to ensure the product can be used safely for people and the environment when they are used according to label instructions.”

In January, industry trade associations CropLife America and Responsible Industry for a Sound Environment (which operate under the same federally registered nonprofit) also submitted comments that provide insight into the industry’s broader perspective on the issue.

In a letter regarding new rules Maine is implementing that will ban products containing PFAS, executives argued against the use of the broader OECD definition of PFAS currently adopted by the state. That definition “disregards the remarkably different physical, chemical, and biological properties that shape the potential human and ecological risk profiles of chemistries that meet that definition.”

They also emphasized that when the EPA approves a new product, it must determine the pesticide will not cause “unreasonable adverse effects” to the environment or human health when used according to the label. Finally, the executives wrote, “the use of PFAS in certain pesticides is essential to their function.”

Demands for More Research and a Common Definition

Experts say that these new short-chain PFAS are unlikely to be as dangerous to human health as the longer-chain chemicals. The shorter the chain, the shorter the time they likely stay in the human body.

But new chemicals do not have as much scientific data on them, Donley said. “We have a little bit here and there that says maybe they’re safe,” he said. “But eventually, more science is going to come out.” Studies have shown the shorter-chain PFAS are already prevalent inside homes and bodies in the U.S. And because of their potential to persist in the environment, by the time we learn about their dangers, it may be too late.

“If you’ve got something that sticks around for generations, then any new science that comes out in the next two years or five years or 10 years saying this stuff is more dangerous than we thought, it’s irreversible.”

“If you’ve got something that sticks around for generations, then any new science that comes out in the next two years or five years or 10 years saying this stuff is more dangerous than we thought, it’s irreversible,” he said. “We estimate we’re releasing about 30 million pounds of short- and ultra-short-chain pesticide PFAS right now each year in the U.S., and we still have very little idea of what is happening to them in the environment and what their true toxicities are.”

To make a similar point, Bennett gave the example of GenX, a PFAS that DuPont introduced in 2009 as a safer replacement for PFOA in commercial products.

DuPont dumped the chemical into North Carolina’s Cape Fear River, leading to devastating contamination that affected millions of people. It is now clear that GenX requires long periods of time to break down, and the chemical is associated with serious health effects, including liver problems and cancer. In May, the EPA eliminated its first limits on GenX in drinking water, set during the Biden administration, and is currently re-reviewing them.

“One thing that EPA keeps forgetting is that the absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence,” Bennett said. “In other words, just because we don’t have the studies and the data doesn’t mean it’s safe. It means we just don’t know yet.”

Given there is evidence pointing to potential health risks and environmental persistence, she said, the EPA should err on the side of caution.

But this “precautionary principle,” much touted by MAHA supporters, doesn’t square with the Trump administration’s broader deregulatory push.

Truly addressing PFAS in the food system, Bennett said, would involve the EPA first adopting the broader definition set by the OECD and regulating those chemicals as a class. That kind of policy would end the registration of persistent, harmful pesticides and even lead to safer drinking-water standards.

Hearing Kennedy, a member of the administration, acknowledging the chemicals’ harms made her angry, she said. “You know it’s dangerous to people, especially children,” she said. “If they’re spraying it on our food, it’s in our water. What are you doing to stop it? The answer is nothing. They’re doing nothing to stop it.”

The post EPA Approves Four New Pesticides That Qualify as PFAS appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/09/08/epa-approves-four-new-pesticides-that-qualify-as-pfas/feed/ 6 Farmers of Color Offer Community Wellness at ‘Healing Farms’ https://civileats.com/2025/09/03/farmers-of-color-offer-community-wellness-at-healing-farms/ https://civileats.com/2025/09/03/farmers-of-color-offer-community-wellness-at-healing-farms/#comments Wed, 03 Sep 2025 08:01:13 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68429 At the center of it all are farmers Hector Lopez and Phoebe Gooding, who say growing food is but one part of their mission on this urban permaculture farm. “We’re here to heal our bodies, the land, and our communities,” Lopez said, gently chewing a mint leaf he had just picked. Set on 1.3 acres […]

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On a drizzly spring morning in North Carolina, the land at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens is alive with activity. Bees hum inside wooden hives while chickens forage, exposing the rich black soil. Vegetables and herbs fill the air with the aromas of mint and rosemary.

At the center of it all are farmers Hector Lopez and Phoebe Gooding, who say growing food is but one part of their mission on this urban permaculture farm. “We’re here to heal our bodies, the land, and our communities,” Lopez said, gently chewing a mint leaf he had just picked.

Set on 1.3 acres outside the couple’s split-level brick home in Durham, Hawk’s Nest welcomes community members for regular events rooted in spirituality. At the back of their property, between a towering teepee and piles of compost, is a dome-like structure made from bent branches. Here the couple regularly offer a temazcal, an ancient sweat lodge ceremony for physical and spiritual purification that Lopez has facilitated for decades.

“We’re producing this food for healing our bodies, but it’s not just that,” Gooding said. “This is about a whole ecosystem of healing.”

Rosemary, mint, and other herbs flourish in garden beds near a mobile chicken coop at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

Rosemary, mint, and other herbs flourish in garden beds near a mobile chicken coop at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

Across the country, farmers of color like Lopez and Gooding are using their farms as centers for community wellness and collective healing. Through workshops, retreats, and immersive experiences, they’re making space for their neighbors and broader community to address everything from racial trauma to burnout to traumatic brain injuries.

In communities of color, where generations of environmental racism and inadequate resources have led to issues like high food insecurity and chronic illnesses, healing-centered farms are more than just nice to have—they’re deeply needed.

“We’re producing food for healing our bodies, but it’s not just that. This is about a whole ecosystem of healing.”

A number of authors have written about land-based healing recently, with notable titles from botanist Robin Wall Kimmerer, herbalist Michele E. Lee, and farmer Leah Penniman. What they all point out is that land has been more than just a resource across cultures and time; it’s also been a healing force for bodies, minds, and spirits. But as colonization and urban industrialization disconnect people from the land, they’re also distanced from their ancestral traditions.

Now, farmers and land stewards of color are reclaiming Indigenous knowledge, taking control over their health through holistic remedies, and building spaces for rest and creative expression. By helping others heal, these farmers say they’re also healing themselves.

Coping with Tragedy

Many such farms trace their beginning back to the COVID-19 pandemic. Witnessing widespread suffering and the higher death toll among people of color was a catalyst for action, as social systems failed to provide the care and resources communities needed.

“So much was lost,” said Robyn Magalit Rodriguez, a Filipina American farmer, activist, and former Asian American studies professor at the University of California, Davis. “All of our people were dying as a consequence of the pandemic, but [also] all the failures of the system.”

For Rodriguez, the pandemic hit particularly hard. Two months after the police murder of George Floyd, amid global protests and a rising death toll, Rodriguez experienced a personal tragedy: her 22-year-old son, Amado Khaya, died from septic shock that may have been exacerbated by COVID-19.

She took up farming to process her grief and honor her son—an activist who was living and working alongside Indigenous land defenders and farmers in the Philippines. “I needed to touch life,” Rodriguez said. “I needed to be in a space where I could see life proliferate despite it all.”

Healing Farms in the U.S.

Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens in Durham, North Carolina, is just one of several healing farms in the United States. Others include:

Ancestral Healing Farm Sanctuary, California
DRFT Farm, Georgia
Freedom Farm Azul, Alabama
Healing by Growing Farms, Connecticut
Jubilee Healing Farm, North Carolina
Remagination Farm, California
The Sanctuary, New York
Soul Fire Farm, New York

 

Rodriguez eventually left her full-time job at the university and, along with her husband, Joshua Vang, a second-generation Hmong refugee and naturalist, founded Remagination Farm in Northern California. On the 8.5 acres they now steward, they raise goats and cultivate crops using regenerative practices.

“It’s not just a farm where you go to learn about planting seeds,” said Stephanie Garma Balon, a Filipina American arts therapist, just days after participating in a weekend retreat for mothers at Remagination Farm. “Being there is a return to self, to ancestors, and right relationship to the land.”

The retreat was organized by Raising Ancestors, a group of parents, caregivers, and activists dedicated to breaking cycles of oppression, Balon said.

Remagination Farm’s website describes it as not only a farm but also “a learning center, healing and arts space” aimed at reconnecting people of color with the land. Educational workshops offer lessons on, among other things, the principles of healing justice. Harvest festivals, film screenings, and fishing lessons invite people to visit for a few hours.

Those looking for a longer stay can book the Amado Khaya Healing House, a two-story home near the farm that was established for activists and organizers to rest and rejuvenate.

Robyn Magalit Rodriguez and Joshua Vang at Remagination Farm. (Photo courtesy of Remagination Farm)

Robyn Magalit Rodriguez and Joshua Vang at Remagination Farm. (Photo courtesy of Remagination Farm)

“I feel so empowered by being in this space,” said Balon, who is the founder of Kapwa Kultural Center, a mental health and wellness space for Filipino youth in Daly City. “The pandemic taught me that we can reclaim the way that our ancestors lived—and we’re able to embody that at Remagination Farm.”

Rodriguez has found the pace of farming healing, too. “There is really something to be said about being present with the life cycle as a farmer that can be deeply healing,” she said. “Planting and harvesting and starting again really gets you to a different place.”

Reclaiming Indigenous Knowledge

Indigenous peoples around the world have coexisted with nature for millennia, seeing their care for the land as central to their well-being. But according to Lopez of Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, initiatives like the Green Revolution—a mid-20th-century movement that promoted chemical-intensive agriculture, beginning in Mexico—contributed to generations of disconnection from these ways of living and knowing.

Born in Mexico City, Lopez grew up unaware of his Indigenous heritage. “When they moved into the city, they abandoned their communities, their languages, and their traditions,” Lopez said, referring in part to his family, some of whom had farmed in mountainous regions.

Now, more than two decades later, he walks the damp earth at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens in knee-high rubber boots, explaining how Indigenous agroecology—or what’s widely known as regenerative farming—influences every aspect of his and Gooding’s urban farm.

“We are taking back all this knowledge,” Lopez says. “All these things that we always did.”

At Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, chickens live in a mobile coop that the farmers rotate across the property, enhance soil health with the droppings. May 2025. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

At Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, chickens live in a mobile coop that the farmers rotate across the property, enhancing soil health. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

On the western side of their farm, medicinal herbs grow alongside blueberries and beehives. On the other side, leafy greens, corn, cucumbers, hibiscus, and loofah grow in a high tunnel alongside a bounty of herbs, including arnica, basil, lemongrass, and lemon balm. An outdoor compost toilet and a rainwater catchment system work together to cycle nutrients back into the earth.

Just as important to this system are the community events that bring neighbors onto the land.

Recently, Lopez and Gooding have offered seed blessing ceremonies and Día de los Muertos altar workshops. This year, Lopez is hosting a new healing series specifically for men, pairing talking circles with sweat lodge ceremonies over five months. According to the website, this is meant to help men unburden themselves of a toxic masculinity that “distances them from their full humanity” and allows them to shift from “conquerors” to “caretakers.”

Gooding said their sweat lodges tend to attract those already on a healing journey—people who tell her, “I needed this,” or “I’ve been wanting something like this.”

The dome at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, constructed from bent branches, is covered with cloth for sweat lodge ceremonies. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

The dome at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, constructed from bent branches, will be covered with cloth for sweat lodge ceremonies. (Photo credit: Nicole J. Caruth)

Ina Maka, a third-generation farmer and wellness practitioner with African American, Choctaw, and Caribbean ancestry, participates in sweat lodge ceremonies at Hawk’s Nest almost monthly and recognizes a difference in herself since starting the practice.

“The sweat lodge allows me to release things at a quicker rate,” she said, naming anxiousness, overwhelm, and generational pain and trauma among the burdens that come up during the ceremonies. “I’ve seen a lot of change in my life.”

Maka drives 1.5 hours to get to Hawk’s Nest from her home in Tarborough, North Carolina, and despite the distance, has built a “sisterhood” with women she’s met there “because they’ve been vulnerable with each other,” she said. “Sitting in a circle with other people and not being afraid to sweat or cry or scream has been healing.”

Bringing Herbal Remedies to Modern Medicine

Americans are increasingly seeking alternatives to modern medicine for physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being. According to a 2022 survey by the National Institutes of Health, traditional healing methods, including yoga, acupuncture, and naturopathy, are gaining popularity, especially among people in search of pain relief. In the last 20 years, the number of people using complementary health approaches for pain grew by about 7 percent, the study stated.

In the San Francisco Bay Area, Bernadette Lim, a trained physician, has observed this trend firsthand. “People don’t want to constantly be dependent on another person to save their health,” she said. “People want to learn how to become their own healers.”

“People don’t want to constantly be dependent on another person to save their health. People want to learn how to become their own healers.”

Amid growing interest in holistic healing methods, there’s been a renewed focus on herbalism, with many seeking care that reflects their cultural roots and ancestral wisdom. Ostensibly, it’s also easier access. Herbal medicine is typically more affordable than pharmaceuticals and doesn’t require health insurance, both of which can be major barriers for people of color.

Lim is the founder of Freedom Community Clinic (FCC), a nonprofit that bridges ancestral practices with modern approaches to health, particularly for Black, Brown, Native, and immigrant communities. Last January, FCC announced the opening of Ancestral Healing Farm Sanctuary, an acre of land in Orinda, about ten minutes outside Oakland, where they cultivate ancestral medicinal plants from around the world, such as those used for traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicines.

The farm isn’t designed for distribution, but rather as a holistic wellness space for experiencing land-based practices rooted in various healing traditions. June featured a workshop on vinegar extractions for healthy plants and soil.

A month before that, FCC invited its followers to gather for a workshop on bee stewardship. Plants harvested at the farm supply the organization’s apothecary in Oakland, where people can access herbs—and the expertise of local herbalists—at no charge.

FCC’s efforts appear to be having a positive impact. Lim says demand for their services has consistently exceeded their capacity. Meanwhile, Marakee Tilahun, FCC’s director of land and community stewardship, said many express to her that the farm has given them a place to feel balanced and more at ease.

“A lot of people who come to me feel so joyous for the opportunity to be on the land and for free,” Tilahun said. “They don’t need to buy anything to be here; they can just exist.”

Women making medicine bags filled with herbs and stones on Native Women’s Wellness Day at Remagination Farm, June 2025. (Photo courtesy of Remagination Farm)

Women making medicine bags filled with herbs and stones on Native Women’s Wellness Day at Remagination Farm, June 2025. (Photo courtesy of Remagination Farm)

Healers Need Healing, Too

Back at Hawk’s Nest Healing Gardens, Lopez and Gooding reflected on a central paradox for farmers who care for others: They both need care themselves.

On the one hand, farming and making space for others to experience land-based healing is a therapeutic experience. “We heal ourselves by helping others,” Lopez said. On the other hand, the labor of growing and selling food, stewarding land, fundraising to sustain it, and holding emotional space for others can be exhausting.

To support their efforts, the couple relies on the community they’ve cultivated to pour into them as they have poured into their community.

For Gooding, this reciprocity is embodied in their sweat lodge, built with the help of friends. Its heavy stones and bent-branch structure represent both the labor of creating a sacred space and the collective energy it takes to heal.

Surrounded by rows of vegetables and fresh herbs, the couple expressed gratitude for community and reverence for Mother Earth, especially during this time of environmental and political upheaval.

“She’s the boss here,” Lopez said, gesturing to the ground and the sky. Gooding nodded in agreement, adding, “And I think she’s telling us we have a lot of healing to do.”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/09/03/farmers-of-color-offer-community-wellness-at-healing-farms/feed/ 1 How Libraries Are Creating Community Through Food https://civileats.com/2025/08/27/how-libraries-are-creating-community-through-food/ https://civileats.com/2025/08/27/how-libraries-are-creating-community-through-food/#respond Wed, 27 Aug 2025 08:01:38 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68331 Here Coleman learned how to compost and repurpose leftovers, thereby reducing her food waste, a bonus to learning about new foods and flavor profiles. “Cooking in public spaces is really fun,” says Coleman, a retired academic medicine administrator who owns over 300 cookbooks. She enjoys combining her love of cooking with being social. “The library […]

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For the last five years, Michelle Coleman has attended cooking and culinary education classes in a light-filled teaching kitchen at her local library in Boston. The kitchen, designed for hands-on cooking and demonstrations with four gas cooktops and a 17-foot-long counter, was included in the building’s redesign in 2020 in response to community feedback.

Here Coleman learned how to compost and repurpose leftovers, thereby reducing her food waste, a bonus to learning about new foods and flavor profiles.

“Cooking in public spaces is really fun,” says Coleman, a retired academic medicine administrator who owns over 300 cookbooks. She enjoys combining her love of cooking with being social. “The library has become this much broader social space for people to feel supported and in community.”

The Schuylerville Library in Schuylerville, New York, features a community fridge (Photo credit: Farm 2 Library)

The Schuylerville Library in Schuylerville, New York, features a community fridge. (Photo courtesy of Farm-2-Library)

Across the country, libraries are using culinary programs to evolve beyond traditional book-lending, adapt to users’ needs, and reshape themselves into contemporary centers of community. Events have generally centered on cookbook or food memoir discussions, perhaps sharing dishes connected to the title, but libraries are increasingly expanding this concept.

For example, some libraries in New York’s Hudson Valley are hosting cider and cheese tastings in a nod to the area’s prolific agricultural scene and experimenting with family-friendly supper clubs. Many are offering programs that help people fight food insecurity and learn wellness and life skills.

Others may give out seeds and spices, lend out kitchen equipment, or host free pantries or grocery stores.

These efforts come amid the declining use of libraries, which are also facing attacks from conservative groups seeking to ban books and even defund libraries. Regular library visits nationwide decreased by 46.5 percent between 2019 and 2022, according to the 2022 Institute of Museum and Library Services’ Public Library Survey. However, recent data shows an upswing as branches reconsider their roles and communities’ needs.

“The reason that people come into their libraries changes, and it’s different and unique to the community that’s being served,” says American Library Association President Sam Helmick. “We should always be asking who’s not at the table and inviting them [in].”

Models for Food Literacy at Libraries

Elizabeth Marshak is the assistant head of the Free Library of Philadelphia Culinary Literacy Center, which in 2014 pioneered the idea of using cooking in a library to develop knowledge and competencies within the Philadelphia community.

You need literacy to cook, she says. “You’re reading the recipe or following directions, gathering your ingredients. There’s organization, a lot of different skills that get improved by cooking,” she notes.

The Culinary Literacy Center features a well-stocked commercial kitchen with seating for 35, a demonstration kitchen, classroom space, prep space, a walk-in refrigerator, and a dishwashing room. It has three Charlie Carts, mobile electric kitchens inspired by the iconic cowboy chuckwagon. The center also has three toolboxes with electric skillets, cutting boards, and other small kitchen tools that are deployed to library branches for simple cooking programs.

Every month, the center offers more than 30 programs for adults and children, from nutrition education to cooking with a local chef, funded by the library, grants, and the center’s rental revenue. Since 2015, the center has also offered Edible Alphabet, a free eight-week, English-language learning program that began as a way to help refugee women in Philadelphia find community. The program is now available to anyone who wants to learn English.

The Pember Library in Granville, New York, offers a variety of cooking workshops, including this one on canning. (Photo credit: Farm 2 Library)

The Pember Library in Granville, New York, offers a variety of cooking workshops, including this one on canning. (Photo courtesy of Farm-2-Library)

The center has become a model for libraries around the nation, including for the Boston Public Library’s Nutrition Literacy program, where Coleman takes classes. Stephanie Chace, who runs the Boston program, says its events reflect a belief that nutritional literacy should include a cultural understanding of food. The lab hosts ayurvedic wellness cooking workshops for new mothers and multi-series offerings like “Navigating Diabetes Through Food and Community.”

The latter, a one-time only course, combined medical professionals, nutritionists, movement specialists, and discussions about African diaspora and African food with renowned culinary historian Dr. Jessica B. Harris.

“I think people feel understood by the library when these programs are offered,” Chace says, adding that this encourages them to return.

The Nutrition Literacy program also features a chef in residence, who researches food topics and creates recipes and classes around them. The current resident is Kayla Tabb, a pastry chef and recipe developer who is studying Indigenous shoreline foods of Massachusetts and Rhode Island.

Through an anonymous $500,000 grant, the program is growing, with additional staffing and a pilot program of five mobile kitchen kits. They consist of easily transportable equipment like induction cooktops and blenders and can be requested by a branch librarian.

Catering to Each Community’s Needs

Across the country, libraries have long been trusted, accessible, and free repositories of resources and information, a democratized space for all. Library administrators look to see what a community needs or lacks “and how we can solve these problems,” says Jack Scott, outreach consultant for the Southern Adirondack Library System in New York.

He oversees Farm-2-Library, which delivers rescued food to 13 libraries for locals to pick up, helping solve problems with food distribution in this rural region.

At the Terrytown Library outside New Orleans, culinary education has blossomed into two weekly children’s cooking classes serving 48 kids, adult culinary and nutrition classes, and a community teaching garden that produces vegetables, fruits, herbs, and flowers.

In the four years since the library began offering culinary education, branch visitation has increased, and physical circulation of materials such as books, DVDs, magazines, and the Library of Things collection has jumped 9.5 percent, says Bethany Lopreste, the library’s manager. The Library of Things allows patrons to sign out items used in daily living, such as kitchen equipment or home improvement tools.

Programs like these help people make proactive choices in their own lives, she added.

“Teaching someone how to cook, how to garden, and how to encourage and include their families to participate is really impactful.”

“Teaching someone how to cook, how to garden, and how to encourage and include their families to participate is really impactful,” Lopreste says.

Learning cooking and self-expression in a safe space are “life skills they can take forward with them,” says Athena Riesenberg, who runs a popular teen cooking program at the Des Moines Public Library’s Franklin branch. During National Poetry Month, for example, attendees baked fortune cookies and wrote their own fortunes. Riesenberg saw how the program fostered camaraderie among participants, one of whom is heading to culinary school after high school.

The Central Arkansas Library System, whose motto is “The Library, Rewritten,” views the library’s role as a community wellness and information hub. Librarians there are information specialists for the community’s day-to-day needs, explains Jessica Frazier-Emerson, coordinator of Be Mighty, an anti-hunger program serving 14 libraries in Little Rock.

According to the Public Library Association’s 2022 services survey, 31.6 percent of libraries say food insecurity is a need they currently address.

“Libraries are accessible, which makes them ideal for food and resource distribution,” Frazier-Emerson says. “They are also bound to only offer no cost and identification-free programming, which also lends to equitable food distribution.”

What Happens When Federal Funding Stops?

The Be Mighty program provides after-school and summer meals for children through the U.S. Department of Agriculture, application and interview assistance for public benefits such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), community refrigerators, little free pantries, nutrition and trauma-informed cooking classes, and free monthly bus passes.

With the recent federal cuts to SNAP benefits, however, Frazier-Emerson worries that she may have to reduce the number of branches that Be Mighty serves.

Trump’s One Big Beautiful Bill didn’t cut funding to the Child and Adult Care Food Program or the SUN Meals, which supply meals to the Be Mighty sites, but Frazier-Emerson is unsure the programs will remain unscathed.

SNAP-Ed, a federal grant program that teaches SNAP recipients how to stretch their SNAP dollars and cook healthy meals, has had its funding eliminated. SNAP-Ed supported some Be Mighty partners, including Arkansas Hunger Relief Alliance, so Be Mighty now offers fewer offsite cooking and nutrition classes.

There are no provisions in the federal bill that directly affect library funding nationally, but the burden it adds on state and local governments imperils support for libraries and other essential infrastructure. Separately, though, the federal government withheld funding earlier this year from the Institute of Museum and Library Services (IMLS), which funnels money to state libraries to use and distribute. And the greater concern is for 2026—when IMLS may be eliminated.

The Schuylerville Library in Schuylerville, New York, regularly distributes fresh fruit and cookbooks. (Photo credit: Farm 2 Library)

The Schuylerville Library in Schuylerville, New York, regularly distributes fresh fruit and cookbooks. (Photo courtesy of Farm-2-Library)

As a result, the New York State Library anticipates losing $8.1 million. At the Southern Adirondack Library System, operations could be crippled, since the funding supports 55 of 80 jobs, including those responsible for processing construction grants, Scott says. Many projects could remain incomplete.

In Arkansas, smaller libraries will feel the greatest impact because they won’t be able to purchase their own databases or digital platforms without the funding, says Tameka Lee, communications director at the Central Arkansas Library System. “Cuts could mean fewer materials and less access for communities that rely on libraries,” she says.

Be Mighty is mainly funded by the city, and to date Frazier-Emerson has not received any indication that it won’t continue to receive support.

“It’s especially important in communities that don’t have a lot of third spaces that already exist,” Frazier-Emerson says. “Access to healthy food, nutrition, and food science, [and] knowing how food works in our bodies—what we need to get through the day, ratios, protein, all that fun stuff—should be free and accessible to the public.”

The Des Moines Public Library’s Franklin branch offers the Teen Chef program, which teaches young people how to make a variety of foods, including twists on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with a different nut butters and jams, gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, and different types of smoothies. (Photo credit: Courtesy of the Des Moines Public Library)

The Des Moines Public Library’s Franklin branch offers the Teen Chef program, which teaches young people how to make a variety of foods, including twists on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with different nut butters and jams, gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, and different types of smoothies. (Photo courtesy of the Des Moines Public Library)

Using Food to Gather Together

In the Hudson Valley, resident Lenny Sutton has seen how food can help build community and relationships. He created cookbook and supper clubs at three local libraries, which he runs each month as a volunteer, drawing from his experiences of cooking in restaurants and boarding schools for nearly 35 years.

“I’ve always enjoyed interacting with people about food,” Sutton says. “It’s a very easy way into a conversation.”

The supper clubs are freeform and encourage participants to be creative in their cooking, with monthly themes like beans, fermented foods, and cheese. He’s watched family bonding as a mother and daughter tried different recipes and learned to cook together. The club inspired one cooking aficionado to get a library card and attend other library programs.

“I’ve seen her grow with the library in a way that I’m hoping we helped facilitate,” Sutton says.

The cookbook club focuses on a single cookbook, with members preparing recipes for a group tasting and a “nitty gritty” discussion about the ingredients, recipes, and photos. Sutton relishes connecting with home cooks who want to expand their knowledge.

“I love using cookbooks as a way to peek into other chefs and their skills and where they come from.”

“I love using cookbooks as a way to peek into other chefs and their skills and where they come from,” he says.

These meaningful experiences prompted him to launch a monthly newsletter, and he maintains cookbookclubs.org, which includes meeting dates for six area groups, information about how to start a club, and suggestions for themes and events.

He sees the clubs as filling a need in a society that is less religious today. “The church potluck has been around for years and years,” he says, and adds, “Folks are looking for a way to have pieces of that [church] lifestyle that they miss or built up.”

Lopreste, in New Orleans, notes how the classes and the teaching garden—the building of a shared place together—planted real roots at the library for participants.

“When people take that amount of pride in a community space,” she says, “it truly becomes a hub of community activity amongst people, who are maybe more disparate than you would expect, to come together almost like a little library family.”

An earlier version of this story stated that in 2026, the Institute of Museum and Library Services would be eliminated. Although that is a possibility, its future has not yet been determined. 

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/08/27/how-libraries-are-creating-community-through-food/feed/ 0 Disasters Block Local Food Access. One Groundbreaking Group Has a Solution. https://civileats.com/2025/08/26/local-food-cant-reach-communities-post-disaster-this-groundbreaking-group-is-helping-change-that/ https://civileats.com/2025/08/26/local-food-cant-reach-communities-post-disaster-this-groundbreaking-group-is-helping-change-that/#respond Tue, 26 Aug 2025 08:01:11 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68288 The local food system was not set up for emergencies. This realization was catalyzing for Julia Van Soelen Kim, a social scientist and food systems advisor for the University of California Cooperative Extension in Napa County, who saw the great abundance available yet no systems to get it to people in need. “The event magnified […]

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In October 2017, the Tubbs Fire in Northern California burned more than 36,000 acres and a large part of suburban Santa Rosa, forcing around 100,000 people to evacuate their homes. Grocery stores, restaurants, and farmers’ markets had to close, and because farmers were unable to get their crops to these vendors, the produce languished on their farms. Meanwhile, displaced residents who had lost their homes and jobs suddenly found themselves struggling to find food.

The local food system was not set up for emergencies. This realization was catalyzing for Julia Van Soelen Kim, a social scientist and food systems advisor for the University of California Cooperative Extension in Napa County, who saw the great abundance available yet no systems to get it to people in need.

“The event magnified and intensified the inequalities in food access and the abundance that our local food system could provide in emergencies,” Van Soelen Kim says.

In typical emergency response larger relief organizations—such as the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), Red Cross, Salvation Army, and state entities—take charge of large-scale feeding. They will use food that might be locally or regionally available from larger chains, but not food sourced directly from area farmers—and there’s no set way for these farmers to get their food to people in their communities.

What’s more, when outside organizations without the proper connections try to start moving food from farms to food banks, it often doesn’t work, Van Soelen Kim says. “They’re just picking up the food and don’t know how the farmer is going to get paid,” she says. While there is a role for these large-scale feeding organizations, she says, “we just want to make sure that they have access to local foods.”

To try to improve the system, Van Soelen Kim created the North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership to connect emergency management and local food-system professionals. The goal of the partnership is to enable the distribution of locally produced food in the wake of disaster. For both fields, this represents a novel collaboration.

Julia Van Soelen Kim facilitates a workshop for food system and emergency response professionals at the Partnership’s May 2025 convening. (Photo courtesy of The North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership)

Julia Van Soelen Kim, founder of the North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership, leads a workshop for food system and emergency response workers at the Partnership’s May 2025 convening. (Photo courtesy of The North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership)

A Landscape Vulnerable to Climate Change

Just north of the San Francisco Bay area, the landscape consists of small fishing towns set amid a dramatic coastline, where waves crash against craggy cliffs. Here, the vineyards and orchards of Marin, Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino counties transition into the forests and tribal lands of Humboldt and Del Norte counties.

While the region is popular with tourists thanks to its coastal location, wineries, and redwoods, the North Coast is very rural. Aside from the communities just outside the Bay Area, the median household income is well below the state average.

Alongside the ever-present threat of earthquakes, the region is especially vulnerable to the effects of climate change. Fires are a worry not just during the hot, dry summers, but year-round, and the coastal landscape is prone to landslides during heavy rains.

Nationwide, climate disasters are increasingly forcing communities to deal with large-scale emergencies, like the floods of Hurricane Helene, the wildfires that ripped through Los Angeles, and the floods in Central Texas after intense rainfall from Tropical Storm Barry. In such emergencies, food distribution is a major concern, and the model that the partnership is developing could serve as a solution across the country.

Suzanne Grady, program director at Petaluma Bounty, a food aid program and emergency food hub, says developing a resilient local food system prior to emergencies helps local food find its way to people after disaster.

“It just seems that we have been set up to rely too heavily upon groups and agencies that come in, potentially flood the area with resources that may or may not be needed, and then leave sometimes just as quickly,” Grady says. “It actually interferes with the local recovery efforts.”

While these relief organizations are necessary for disaster response writ large, she says, if there’s a resilient food system in place, the incoming groups could tap into that local system already in operation.

Boxes of shiitake mushrooms that Mycality Mushrooms donated to survivors of the 2022 earthquakes. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

Boxes of shiitake mushrooms that Mycality Mushrooms donated to survivors of the 2022 earthquakes in Humboldt, CA. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

Transforming Regional Food Systems to Prepare for Disaster

Typically, those who work in food systems—farmers, food policy council members, food hub coordinators, farmers’ market managers, and food pantry managers—rarely, if ever, cross professional paths with emergency management workers. The North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership is meant to change that, creating a way for these different regional entities to meet, connect, and strategize.

The majority of the $1.5 million in funding for the project comes from the USDA’s Regional Food Systems Partnership Program, and the rest consists of local grants and matching funds from regional organizations and community foundations. As of this writing, the USDA funding has remained intact, despite the administration’s shift in priorities.

In mid-August, in fact, Van Soelen Kim received news that the program received a no-cost extension from the USDA, meaning that instead of having to scale back or end their activities, they have one more year to carry out their work using what’s remaining of their existing funding.

“We have been set up to rely too heavily upon groups and agencies that come in, potentially flood the area with resources that may or may not be needed, and then leave, sometimes just as quickly. It actually interferes with the local recovery efforts.”

Van Soelen Kim and her colleagues are taking full advantage if the extension by focusing on three goals: building a “community of practice” among emergency management and daily food-operations professionals to collaborate on emergency feeding plans; establishing the technical assistance needed for food distribution systems to pivot after disaster; and shifting local government policy to incorporate local food distribution as central to emergency plans.

Van Soelen Kim has seen almost immediate results from the community of practice goal in particular. Partnership members meet by virtual calls quarterly and in person annually. While 250 people are on the member list, typically around 75 people participate in each meeting. Together, they discuss topics around local food systems and disaster response and build relationships with each other.

“This North Coast Regional Partnership has opened the doors for a lot of relationships and networking that is invaluable to the development of this local group,” says Robert Sataua, the emergency food response coordinator for Food for People, Humboldt County’s food bank. “It’s not something that’s a metric that you can put on paper, but I think the momentum is there.”

Emergency food boxes outside the Family Resource Center of the Redwoods food bank during the Smith Complex Fire in 2023. The board shows the number of emergency food boxes distributed to the rural communities in Del Norte County. (Photo credit: Iya Mahan)

Emergency food boxes outside the Family Resource Center of the Redwoods food bank during California’s Smith Complex Fire in 2023. The white board shows the number of emergency food boxes distributed to rural communities in Del Norte County. (Photo credit: Iya Mahan)

Most of Humbolt County, which is rural and rugged outside the port city of Eureka, is susceptible to disasters like fires and winter storms. Local producers raise and harvest livestock, dairy, a diverse array of crops, and oysters, yet a 2019 U.C. Davis report shows that one in five Humboldt County residents lives in a low-income area with limited access to food, especially fresh food. During emergencies, disparate relief organizations worked in a vacuum and most food came from outside Humboldt County.

Sataua, networking with colleagues in other organizations through the partnership, helped develop a multi-agency feeding plan to supplement regional and community disaster response. In Humboldt County, the new plan lays out strategies and guidance that will minimize duplication, coordinate resources, and deliver food and water efficiently.

With this plan, food systems and emergency management folks get on the same page before disaster strikes. Coordinated preparation helps farmers sell their food in a disaster and residents to more easily find out where and how to access it.

‘When Something Happens, We Know Who to Call’

Iya Mahan is the program director for the Del Norte and Tribal Lands Community Food Council (DNATL Food Council), an organization that strategizes to make the food system more local and equitable in her community. Her work with the Partnership inspired the creation of an emergency feeding task force for Del Norte County, another rural, rugged area, on the Oregon border.

The task force—which involved multiple parties including the Office of Emergency Services, the Department of Health and Human Services, two county food banks, and tribal communities—created a Multi-Agency Disaster Feeding Plan (MADFP), and now meets monthly to coordinate and discuss emergency feeding efforts and ways to strengthen resilience.

The plan is more than a document, Mahan says. “It’s a community-built roadmap for action. Developed by local organizations and government partners working side by side, it has strengthened relationships, clarified roles, and prepared us to respond quickly in a crisis.”

The relationships that members are developing are key, she says. “When something happens, we know who to call, and we know how to communicate with them—we’ve already built the relationship. So, we’re seeing a lot of strength in that soft infrastructure of relationship building.”

One example is the relationship between the DNATL Food Council and the school district’s nutrition services director, Julie Bjorkstrand.

“When something happens, we know who to call, and we know how to communicate with them—we’ve already built the relationship. We’re seeing a lot of strength in that soft infrastructure of relationship building.”

That relationship showed its strength during the Smith River Complex Fire in August 2023, when the food bank, along with many homes in the area, lost power. The fairgrounds that was serving as a shelter had a hard time to keeping up with the demand.

“[Bjorkstrand] really stepped up,” says Mahan, refrigerating all the food from the food bank at the school district kitchen—and then going beyond. “She actually created a team that cooked and fed everybody at the shelter—[using] the school kitchens that she uses to serve 1,800 students breakfast and lunch every day.”

Bjorkstrand’s nimble response shows there’s room in a local food system to respond to disaster. The school district’s nutrition services team, which is actively involved in the task force, has now integrated lessons from the Smith River Fire Complex into the plan and laid out how the school district can help after another disaster.

Establishing Food Hubs and Bottom-Up Infrastructure

The partnership is helping organizations work through the more difficult aspects of creating localized food systems, which can serve communities on a regular basis—and activate in new ways after disaster.

Humboldt County Food Hub volunteer Jennifer Bell helps pack Harvest Boxes in 2020 for distribution during the pandemic. The Harvest Boxes were part of the North Coast Growers' Association food hub, created in part as a result of the Partnership. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

Humboldt County volunteer Jennifer Bell helps pack Harvest Boxes in 2020 for distribution during the pandemic. The boxes are a creation of the North Coast Growers’ Association food hub. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

Many Humboldt County business leaders revealed in surveys that they found building local and regional food systems to be a clunky process even in blue-sky times, says Megan Kenney, director of cooperative distribution for the county’s North Coast Growers’ Association (NCGA). In surveys distributed to local businesses, including local restaurants, food trucks, and food vendors, “everyone really wanted more local food,” Kenney says. “There just wasn’t an easy way to get it.”

The 100-member growers’ association supported the county’s farmers by coordinating farmers’ markets—but it didn’t distribute food. Now, thanks to participation in the North Coast Emergency Partnership, the group offers a food hub and a multi-farm CSA, too.

Kenney credits the connections and ideas she developed in the partnership for the development of the Harvest Hub in 2020. To make it easy for food buyers like restaurants and grocery stores to buy local food, the hub created an online marketplace that mimics a traditional distribution system.

Farmers drop off their local harvests at the cold storage facility in the NCGA warehouse, a key component of the food hub. From there, hub vehicles deliver the food to customers.

Currently, the hub provides food for 34 school sites, 11 restaurants, and nine community organizations that include two food banks, four tribes, and two community centers.

“What it often comes down to, in the network that you formed, is how much information and collective action can you accomplish?”

Though the hub serves the county year round, it has already proven essential after disasters. During the 2021 Monument Fire, NCGA put together no-cook boxes with produce and locally made soap for evacuees and people without power. Following a 6.4 magnitude earthquake in December 2022 and during subsequent winter storms, the hub collected donations from farmers for bulk food distributions.

And during the Smith River Complex fires in August 2023, its members sent food to Crescent City in Del Norte County, proving that the Partnership not only fosters cross-sectoral collaboration, but cross-county support as well. On-site at the hub’s warehouse, they’ve helped to coordinate emergency supply storage.

Additionally, to get around blocked roads after disaster, NCGA—with help from a USDA Resilient Food Systems Infrastructure (RFSI) grant and California Jobs First grants—is planning to establish “cooler nodes,” food drop-off sites with solar-powered coolers, in isolated communities.

During regular times, the nodes can keep food at safe temperatures until hub employees make the rounds for pickup and redistribution. After a disaster, they can serve as lifelines, providing a place for farmers to drop food to be integrated into an emergency feeding operation.

Farmers would still get paid through the same networks, but the recipients of the food would be food pantries or emergency providers like the Red Cross. They could use the same system and codes for the coolers to access food without having to have extra staff on hand.

Daniel Aldrich, director of the Resilience Studies Program and co-director of the Global Resilience Institute at Northeastern University, has found time and again in his research that connections among local people are important to building resilient communities.

“These bottom-up social infrastructure spaces [such as a food hub or community garden] give us the space where we can have agency,” Aldrich says. “The social connection, social capital, always tries to build these ideas of knowledge, of collective action.”

In Humboldt County, volunteers prepare Harvest Box distribution to the Fortuna Resource Center over the holidays in 2023. The Harvest Boxes were part of the North Coast Growers' Association food hub, created in part as a result of the Partnership. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

In Humboldt County, volunteers prepare Harvest Boxes for distribution during the 2023 holidays. (Photo credit: Megan Kenney)

Bringing Local, State, and National Efforts Together

Another important aspect to resilience-building: translating the bottom-up social infrastructure made possible by the North Coast Emergency Food System Partnership to the larger feeding entities. Van Soelen Kim saw this in action at the group’s most recent annual convening on May 13.

The event brought in 75 attendees from all the counties in the partnership, representing organizations including the Redwood Empire Food Bank, the Salvation Army, the American Red Cross, and the California Department of Social Services Disaster Services. It even brought in state and national representatives from large-scale food distribution and disaster response groups. The important factor wasn’t just that these organizations attended; it’s that their participation allowed for personal introductions.

“All the representatives from these large feeding entities . . . expressed, ‘If you need us, pick up the phone and call us,’” says Van Soelen Kim. “That kind of open-door approach was great to see because before, no one knew even where the front door was, and now they have an actual person to call.”

These connections matter, says Aldrich, of the Global Resilience Institute. “What it often comes down to, in the network that you formed, is how much information and collective action can you accomplish? If you’re alone, if you’re isolated, if you’re not engaged with other people, it’s much harder.”

Resilience, he emphasizes, is about human-to-human interaction, which the Partnership provides.

While the group has not replicated its work in other communities quite yet, organizers have started to disseminate information about the project at scholarly conferences and hope to begin training practitioners in other regions, Van Soelen Kim says.

With an upheaval in federal emergency assistance funding, Aldrich believes that communities need to step up for themselves. Traditionally, he says, we think about disaster response as having two pillars: government assistance provided by FEMA and the state, and insurance provided by the market.

“But the reality is what we see right now—both in California and with the ongoing mess in D.C.—is, it is really a triangle, not two pillars. The third part is community. What it often comes down to, in the network that you formed, is how much information and collective action can you accomplish?”

As the North Coast heads into the driest parts of the season and the Tubbs Fire’s eighth anniversary, Van Soelen Kim says the members of the North Coast Emergency Food System are increasingly appreciative of their group’s innovative approach.

“With time, we’ve found what we’re doing here on the North Coast is really special,” she says. “New people keep showing up to the conversation [and] we continue learning together about how layered and complex the emergency food system is. By collaborating in this way, we’re creating something unique that isn’t being done elsewhere.”

The post Disasters Block Local Food Access. One Groundbreaking Group Has a Solution. appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/08/26/local-food-cant-reach-communities-post-disaster-this-groundbreaking-group-is-helping-change-that/feed/ 0 Op-ed: Public Grocery Stores Already Exist and Work Well. We Need More. https://civileats.com/2025/08/20/op-ed-public-grocery-stores-already-exist-and-work-well-we-need-more/ https://civileats.com/2025/08/20/op-ed-public-grocery-stores-already-exist-and-work-well-we-need-more/#comments Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:01:40 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68212 The affordability crisis is crushing American families. Grocery prices have spiked 32 percent since 2019, with even sharper increases in meat, frozen foods, and snacks—categories that make up over 50 percent of Americans’ calories and are dominated by a handful of conglomerates. Market concentration has enabled food giants to raise prices, while actual consumption has […]

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New York Assemblymember Zohran Mamdani’s proposal to open five city-run grocery stores has grocery industry executives—and other political foes—clutching their pearls. Critics call it a socialist fantasy. But publicly owned grocery stores already exist, serving over a million Americans every day, with prices 25 to 30 percent lower than conventional retail. We need more public grocery stores, not fewer.

The affordability crisis is crushing American families. Grocery prices have spiked 32 percent since 2019, with even sharper increases in meat, frozen foods, and snacks—categories that make up over 50 percent of Americans’ calories and are dominated by a handful of conglomerates. Market concentration has enabled food giants to raise prices, while actual consumption has flatlined since 2019.

The numbers are starker in New York, where 85 percent of New Yorkers are paying more for groceries than they did last year and 91 percent are concerned about inflation’s impact on their food bills.

Supermarket closures are another major issue. While several grocery chains have expanded, these openings are unevenly distributed, often bypassing the very neighborhoods that have lost supermarkets. In many working-class areas, closures have left residents relying on discount chains and liquor outlets instead. The lack of grocery stores isn’t something that can be fixed by the Robinson-Patman Act, enacted during the New Deal to prevent price discrimination by large retail buyers at the expense of smaller competitors. New York already has one of the least concentrated grocery markets in the country, and trust-busting won’t make new grocery stores open in low-income neighborhoods.

In New York, as nationally, the crisis of affordability is real and food apartheid is, too. Food consumption is deeply divided by race, class, and geography. This is a structural problem, and there’s a long history of ideas for structural solutions.

Some of the best visions for the future come from outside the United States. Bulgaria announced plans to roll out 1,500 rural grocery stores, buying local produce and reselling at cost to support both farmers and underserved rural consumers. From South Korea to the European Union, governments are strengthening public and local supply chains.

But we can look even closer to home to find a public grocery success story: the U.S. military.

The Pentagon’s Grocery

Every branch of the military operates its own grocery system, a network known as the Defense Commissary Agency (DeCA). With 236 stores worldwide, DeCA is a retail behemoth, generating over $4.6 billion in annual revenue. If it were a private corporation, it would rank among the top 50 chains in the nation. In 2023 alone, U.S. military families, veterans, and other eligible shoppers saved an estimated $1.6 billion on their grocery bills.

“We can look close to home to find a public grocery success story: the U.S. military. If it were a private corporation, it would rank among the top 50 chains in the nation.”

The model is simple and effective. Commissaries are not profit centers; they are cost centers. By law, they operate on a cost-plus model, selling goods at what they pay for them, plus a 5 percent surcharge that covers the cost of store construction and modernization. DeCA leverages the immense, centralized buying power of the entire Department of Defense to negotiate rock-bottom prices from suppliers.

Furthermore, commissary workers are federal employees, often unionized, with stable pay and benefits. This removes labor costs from the individual stores’ balance sheets and ensures that the mission of providing affordable food isn’t compromised by the downward pressure on wages that defines the private retail industry. The result is a system that delivers low prices and high-quality service and is immensely popular with service members, demonstrating that a government-run, nonprofit grocery model can thrive at scale.

Scale for Victory

Skeptics will say it won’t work outside the military, pointing to small attempts like one in Baldwin, Florida, where a municipal grocery closed last year, or Chicago’s stalled plans, or other failed public-private partnerships. The scorn these failures attract is both wrong and right.

Wrong because the status quo is demonstrably bad. Where are these critics when Aldi or Lidl gain market share with cookie-cutter, vertically integrated discount models that displace diverse, unionized operators, or when dollar stores swamp neighborhoods with misleading prices and low-quality, ultra-processed foods?

Public grocery stores add to food security, offering something that food banks can’t: dignity, choice, and control over food supply chains. They can anchor broader food justice efforts, creating demand for values-based purchasing that prioritizes worker dignity, environmental sustainability, and racial equity. (Mamdani’s commitment to minimum wage increases and safety nets are of a piece with public grocery policy.)

Critics are right, however, to note that grocery is a business of scale. Public groceries can succeed, but only with the scale and operational sophistication of proven models. Half-measures will inevitably fail.

Existing—and Successful—Models

There are clear models for operating a public grocery store: Combine the military commissary’s cost-plus pricing (and free delivery) with Costco’s warehouse efficiency and Aldi’s limited assortment strategy.

Stock no more than 1,500 carefully selected products instead of 30,000. Buy in massive volumes. Employ union workers as municipal employees, removing labor costs from individual store budgets.

And make it joyful and dignified to work and shop there.

“Public grocery stores add to food security, offering something that food banks can’t: dignity, choice, and control over food supply chains.”

There are already foundations on which to build. New York City’s Good Food Purchasing Program, for example, requires school food vendors to meet standards for nutrition, environmental impact, and fair labor. Such values-based procurement was inspired by private sector supply chain standards, which brought premium quality products to consumers. The Good Food Purchasing Program shows we can do this without the steep prices.

Why stop at lunch trays? Public grocery stores could bring high standards full circle, creating demand for ethical producers who are locked out of centralized supermarket, dollar store, or discounter supply chains, while offering best-in-market prices to consumers.

Public grocery stores could be the first step to scaling up and anchoring vertically integrated public food systems. Municipal processing and manufacturing could aggregate demand for local, sustainably grown products as the basis for shelf-stable goods—soups, frozen meals, snacks—normally dominated by a handful of conglomerates. This would lower the risk for values-based farmers while making good food the most affordable option, not the most expensive.

Starting up such an operation won’t be cheap, but doing it successfully will save New Yorkers hundreds of millions of dollars off their grocery bills every year. Our calculations, exclusive to Civil Eats and unpublished elsewhere, show that operating five full-service stores across all New York’s boroughs would require at least $20 million per year each, assuming good union labor rates and free rent.

Those costs can drop a little if a Costco-like warehouse model is adopted; however, the expense of running 20 such stores (and keeping them medium size) is north of $400 million per year.

That’s a small investment in addressing hunger in a city as big as New York, which already purchases more than $300 million worth of food for vital city programs. Other public services that New Yorkers benefit from require even higher funding.

For example, the New York City police department budget is over $10 billion a year. Our public grocery estimate is less than 4 percent of that. The fire department budget is over $2.6 billion and the department of sanitation’s is $2 billion. The city’s budget adds up to more than $112 billion a year. So, while $400 million is a substantial sum, it would be a rounding error, 0.36 percent of the annual budget.

“There are clear models for operating a public grocery store: Combine the military commissary’s cost-plus pricing (and free delivery) with Costco’s warehouse efficiency and Aldi’s limited assortment strategy.”

Much of this budget would cover the overhead expenses and profit margins that customers typically pay for in the form of high retail prices, but New Yorkers will keep this money in their pockets. The budget also leaves plenty of room for growth if the concept is embraced by New Yorkers. There’s reason to think that stores with low prices and high ethics would work in the Big Apple. And if they can make it there, they can make it anywhere.

Food inflation is rife and set to get worse. As Trump’s tariffs, immigration crackdowns, federal nutrition program and local food supply chain cuts, defunding of food banks, and SNAP cuts worsen food apartheid, public groceries offer a proven, pragmatic policy solution.

The idea is certainly being taken seriously by grocery sector labor unions. Faye Guenther, president of United Food and Commercial Workers 3000, argues that giant companies like Krogers and Albertsons are closing stores and “transforming themselves into companies that are more focused on collecting and selling customer data than they are on selling food.”

In the face of this, she told us by email, “We need a public option in the supermarket industry—stores that are focused on providing healthy food in our communities while providing jobs with good wages and benefits. The public sector already has large, efficient food supply chains through municipal education departments and through the U.S. military commissary system, so we don’t need to reinvent the wheel. Publicly owned supermarkets should find the right way to piggyback on those systems.”

Beyond a Broken Model

The grocery industry will claim that public groceries hurt small businesses, ignoring the fact that the greatest threat to those businesses is the unchecked proliferation of chains like Dollar General and the predatory pricing power of giants like Walmart and Aldi. They will call it an inefficient government boondoggle, hoping no one notices the efficiency of the military commissary system.

The truth is that the ground has already shifted. Two-thirds of New York City voters now support the creation of public grocery stores, because anything that helps meet the crisis of affordability is going to be welcome.

They’re not alone. Thirteen states have begun to explore public grocery stores. Communities across the nation are tired of corporate price gouging, empty shelves, and a food system designed to extract maximum wealth rather than nourish them.

The solution lies in thinking upstream, in building public alternatives that operationalize the Right to Food, a concept supported by over 80 percent of Americans, adopted by Maine in 2021, and being explored by a range of other states, too.

The blueprint is clear. With the commissary as a template, take a page from Costco: pile the produce high, staff the floor with union labor, stock the shelves with good food, offer home delivery, and make it as beautiful as the New York Public Library, because the working class deserve nothing but the best.

If the private market cannot or will not deliver affordable, nutritious food to all its citizens—and it has proven that it won’t—then the public sector must.

The post Op-ed: Public Grocery Stores Already Exist and Work Well. We Need More. appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/08/20/op-ed-public-grocery-stores-already-exist-and-work-well-we-need-more/feed/ 3 Should Regenerative Farmers Pin Hopes on RFK Jr.’s MAHA? https://civileats.com/2025/08/19/should-regenerative-farmers-pin-hopes-on-rfk-jr-s-maha/ https://civileats.com/2025/08/19/should-regenerative-farmers-pin-hopes-on-rfk-jr-s-maha/#respond Tue, 19 Aug 2025 08:01:18 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=68145 This is the second in a series of articles examining the promises and policies of the MAHA movement. Read the first story here. In the process, his operation became a model for treating animals and the land well while building financial, community, and environmental resilience across America’s rural landscape. Along the way, he hasn’t shied […]

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This is the second in a series of articles examining the promises and policies of the MAHA movement. Read the first story here.

Over the past two decades, Will Harris has become a thought leader and superstar among farmers intent on transforming American agriculture. At White Oak Pastures in Bluffton, Georgia, he moved his cattle, chickens, and hogs back outside onto pastures, certified his vegetables organic, invested in practices that build healthy soil, built processing infrastructure, and created his own distribution networks.

In the process, his operation became a model for treating animals and the land well while building financial, community, and environmental resilience across America’s rural landscape. Along the way, he hasn’t shied away from positioning his approach as a means to take back power from global meatpackers and end harms caused by industrial food production.

It’s the kind of farming—and thinking—that Robert F. Kennedy Jr., now the Secretary of Health and Human Services, has long celebrated as a health and environmental advocate.

So while Harris, who wears a tan cowboy hat and speaks with a soothing Southern drawl, says he’s generally “apolitical,” lately, he’s been engaging in D.C. discourse. That’s because he is “shocked and pleased at how much attention my kind of farming is getting.”

While Kennedy was still running his own campaign for president last year, his running mate, Nicole Shanahan, visited White Oak Pastures. A year later, with Kennedy a member of President Trump’s cabinet, Harris received an invitation to the White House for the release of the administration’s first Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) Commission report.

“I’m not saying I was the only farmer there, but I was the only one there that looked like a farmer,” he said. On Instagram, White Oak Pastures posted a photo of Harris in his cowboy hat with his two daughters at the event, plus a photo of Trump and Kennedy. Comments on the photos were heated.

As everyone awaits the official release of the second MAHA Commission report, expected in early September, those remarks point to a divide that exists among farmers who typically agree on things like increasing organic matter, reducing pesticide use, and diversifying crops.

“I’m really delighted to see more conversation around helping people get access to more healthy food. We need that. And we also need to help farmers with the infrastructure to make it happen.”

Like Harris, some farmers are thrilled to hear Kennedy using the word “regenerative” in the halls of power and calling out corporate influence on the food system, and are optimistic that real change is coming. Others question whether Kennedy will walk the walk, given his place in the Trump administration, which has been rolling back environmental protections, supporting increased taxpayer funding for chemical-dependent, commodity agriculture, and cutting support for the small, regenerative farms that the MAHA movement claims to support.

They also say the administration’s aggressive pushback on diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) initiatives is hurting the young farmers who disproportionately run regenerative farms. The now-delayed (and recently leaked) second report from RFK’s MAHA Commission seems to confirm those concerns.

“We have had a major setback,” said Kate Mendenhall, an Iowa farmer who is also the director of the Organic Farmers Association, describing what organic and regenerative farmers have experienced since the Trump administration took over.

Mendenhall said many farmers fell behind this season because of the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) funding freezes and are now reluctant to expand or invest in new practices. Many have also lost technical support due to program cancellations and staff reductions.

“I don’t think we can see the full impact now, but maybe next season we’ll see what comes forward or what we’re lacking this fall and winter,” she said. “I’m really delighted to see more conversation around helping people get access to more healthy food. We need that. And we also need to help farmers with the infrastructure steps they need to make it happen.”

will harris headshot

Will Harris of White Oak Pastures.

A Resounding Message from MAHA

When Harris started shifting to regenerative practices at White Oak, he said, he thought of himself as an early innovator. But after 25 years that saw little change in the overall farm landscape, he began to think that maybe he’d be a lifelong niche marketer.

“Now all this MAHA talk makes me think that maybe, again, I might be an early innovator,” he said. “And I like that better.”

In other words, Kennedy’s attention feels like overdue recognition for some farmers who have been on the agricultural fringe for a long time.

While the Biden administration made some of the largest investments in history in paying farmers to implement conservation practices, rebuilding regional meat processing infrastructure, and shoring up the local supply chains that small, regenerative farms sell into, it also maintained the overall status quo and didn’t talk about transformation as loudly or as often as Kennedy does.

Harris said he heard talk of those investments but never saw impacts on the ground. What he remembers about the Climate-Smart Commodities Program, a signature initiative of Biden’s USDA, is not that it sent millions of dollars to small, regenerative farms through organizations like Pasa and Working Landscapes North Carolina, but that it directed huge sums of money to Tyson and other commodity ag giants.

Now, the thing that stands out to him about the current USDA is not that its actions seem to place the administration firmly on the side of Big Ag, but that Secretary of Agriculture Brooke Rollins has repeatedly showcased her working relationship with Kennedy.

“I haven’t seen many programs implemented so far, but it’s still very early on,” Harris said. “I might get disappointed again, but the promise is better than it’s ever been in my lifetime.”

Steve Groff is similarly optimistic.

“The MAHA movement is a dream come true for me, because before I even heard the term, I was doing it,” said Groff, a third-generation farmer in southern Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, where he farms 200 acres with his son. “We need to eat less junk food and more healthy food, and I think every American agrees that there’s just too much chronic disease. Something’s going on here. We have an opportunity here that is just unbelievable.”

“The MAHA movement is a dream come true for me, because before I even heard the term, I was doing it.”

Groff plants hemp on most of his land; he used to process the crop into CBD oil but is now getting into fiber production for textiles and building materials. He also grows heirloom tomatoes, squash, and pumpkins that he sells to Whole Foods. His farm is certified regenerative by Regenified, which requires farmers to implement certain soil health practices but is not organic, since it does allow the use of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.

To that end, his fields have been 100 percent no-till since 1996, and he regularly plants cover crops. Because of his attention to soil health and ecosystems, he said, he’s been able to reduce the amount of chemical herbicides and fertilizers he uses over time.

“It’s mimicking nature as much as we can to grow food,” he said. (No-till farming and using cover crops also often rely heavily on pesticides, especially glyphosate, which many in the MAHA movement are opposed to and Kennedy has been critical of in the past.)

Groff said he’s always been a conservative but that he didn’t always fully trust Trump. When Trump joined forces with Kennedy, however, that started to change.

As an example of how farmers might begin to shift to more regenerative practices, he offers the example of how farmers in Maryland and Pennsylvania in the 1980s were initially resistant to no-till farming and planting cover crops, but increasingly adopted both as awareness grew about how the practices could reduce pollution into the Chesapeake Bay.

“In my area right here, 70 percent of the land is no-till and cover crops. Now, they don’t do it for the Chesapeake Bay, they do it because it’s a better way to farm,” he said. “And the same practices that we started to do for the sake of the Bay now are the same practices to grow healthier food.”

TendWell Farm, in North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains.

TendWell Farm, in North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains. (Photo courtesy of TendWell Farm)

USDA Cuts to Funding

The trouble is, that shift largely happened because the federal government and state partners paid farmers to do it. Trump’s budget proposal called for eliminating funding for Chesapeake Bay programs at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Lawmakers in Congress have so far resisted that cut, but the administration has slashed funding and support for farmers trying to shift toward better practices on many other fronts.

At TendWell Farm in western North Carolina, farmer Steven Beltram grows leafy greens, tomatoes, peppers, and other vegetables across several hundred acres to sell to grocery stores and other commercial distributors.  Not only is the farm certified organic, it’s Real Organic Project certified, adding an extra layer of regenerative cred.

“We really focus on trying to build and restore and make the soil better year over year,” Beltram said.

Hit hard by Hurricane Helene last year, TendWell was grateful to be participating in a USDA initiative called the Local Food Purchase Assistance Cooperative Program that offered funding to move fresh produce from small farms directly into food banks.

The contract was for about $5,000 a week, a significant amount for a business of their size. It was especially beneficial, he said, because unlike with grocers who demand a certain amount of kale or lettuce regardless of how the crops turn out, TendWell could send the food banks surplus produce, thereby reducing waste.

“That was a good thing for us, and that was a good thing for our neighbors,” he said. “Giving out local produce to the community—I can’t see how anyone could be opposed to that.”

“Giving out local produce to the community—I can’t see how anyone could be opposed to that.”

But in March, the USDA canceled $1 billion that had been allocated to the program and another similar program that connected small farms to schools, ending that source of income for TendWell. At the time, Rollins said repeatedly that she was ending it because it was a COVID-era program and states still had plenty of money left to spend.

At the same time, Rollins’ USDA has also cancelled 2025 funding for the Patrick Leahy Farm to School Program, ended the Regional Food Business Centers program, and revised the Climate-Smart Commodities Program in a way that meant many small, regenerative farms and the organizations that support them have borne the brunt of the impacts.

“It’s interesting to see that the USDA is cutting funding for programs like [Local Food Purchase Assistance] while they’re increasing payments for commodity crop production, and of course all that commodity crop production is based on the use of glyphosate,” Beltram said, referencing the $67 billion bump that commodity growers got in the recent One Big Beautiful Bill. “It really feels like a divided administration. The USDA is for the most part implementing practices that are the exact opposite of the goals of the MAHA movement.”

At the Organic Farmers Association, Mendenhall said she also sees staffing cuts at the Natural Resources Conservation Services (NRCS) as potentially undermining MAHA agricultural goals, since NRCS employees in local offices can act as guides for farmers looking to improve their grazing practices to produce grass-fed beef or to get the help they need to reduce chemical use.

“They’ve lost a lot of local technical expertise at NRCS in particular,” she said.

At the same time, cuts to other programs mean agriculture support organizations that provide similar help have also let staff go. “That type of technical assistance that farmers rely on when they’re scaling up or expanding markets has also been lost,” she said.

What Mendenhall would like to see in the MAHA policy recommendations is a reinvestment in helping farmers scale up organic production and enter new markets like school food, hospitals, and the institutional markets that open new doors to wholesale.

“That is the avenue forward, and that’s a great way to increase consumption of organic food, but farmers can’t just do it,” she said. “They need support in order to scale up, and then they’ll be able to continue to do it, but we have to invest in the supply chain issues that are creating a barrier for them to doing that on their own.”

Steven Beltram amid his tomatoes at TendWell Farm.

Steven Beltram amid his tomatoes at TendWell Farm. (Photo courtesy of TendWell Farm)

USDA Ends Support for Young Regenerative Farmers

In western Pennsylvania, at a vegetable farm just outside Pittsburgh, Adrienne Nelson took a break on a recent Friday afternoon from bunching scallions for a farmers’ market. Nelson, who has been organizing young farmers in Pennsylvania, Ohio, and West Virginia for eight years, also grows, on another parcel of land, her own organic dry beans: black turtle, flageolet, and Good Mother Stallard, among others—a healthy, local protein source that can be hard to come by in the Northeast.

Customers at the farmers’ market have already reported they were losing benefits that allow them to buy more healthy food from local farms using their Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) benefits, Nelson said. She’s also seen a lot of her farmer friends lose jobs with support organizations, including at Pasa and at the National Young Farmers Coalition (NYFC), where she is an associate field director.

“It’s so powerful to know that you can grow food and preserve a future, so that keeps me going all the time, but I do have worries,” she said. “I really want to have hope that the administration will show how they can support smaller farms. It has been interesting to watch freezes happen and unfreezes happen and nothing feels totally certain or set in stone. Every day is wildly different.”

“I really want to have hope that the administration will show how they can support smaller farms.”

Things have been particularly fraught for young farmers who don’t fit the stereotype of the brawny white male American farmer. In its latest survey, in 2022, NYFC received responses from more than 10,000 young farmers across the country.

“Through that data, we learned that there are way more farmers of color who are young and way more queer farmers that the USDA data doesn’t reflect,” Nelson said. Eighty-six percent of the young farmers surveyed classified their approach as regenerative farming.

Biden’s USDA encouraged organizations and farmers applying for grants to emphasize whether they were a part of or serving underserved groups, such as BIPOC, women, or LGBTQ farmers. Now, as the USDA goes through grant contracts rooting out DEI initiatives, those farmers and organizations are the ones seeing their grant contracts cancelled.

To push back on that issue, NYFC launched a social media campaign last month dubbed #WeAreAmericanFarmers, calling on USDA to honor its contracts, given Rollins’ repeated statements around supporting American farmers.

“This campaign is to underscore farmers who are immigrants, farmers who are not white, farmers who are queer are all American farmers as well,” Nelson said. “It’s a call for representation and to call out that kind of dangerous language around who gets access to USDA resources or not and who feels like they belong.”

Pesticides, Climate Change, and Ecosystems: MAHA vs. EPA and USDA

Some farmers who lean conservative, like Groff in Pennsylvania, don’t see the Trump Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) aggressive climate rollbacks and environmental deregulation as necessarily out of line with MAHA goals. Others, including most of the young farmers in the NYFC survey, see it as an imminent threat.

“We’re definitely experiencing a change in climate here, and it’s making it more challenging to farm, even aside from just a massive disaster that takes out all the infrastructure,” said TendWell Farm’s Beltram, who still hasn’t received disaster assistance after Hurricane Helene destroyed roads, tractors, box trucks, and more at multiple farm locations and left his team to spend the entire winter cleaning debris out of fields.

“We’re definitely experiencing a change in climate here, and it’s making it more challenging to farm, even aside from a massive disaster that takes out all the infrastructure.”

On the environmental side, the MAHA movement behind Kennedy has been more vocal about its desire to see more regulation of pesticides linked to health and environmental harm, especially glyphosate, atrazine, and neonicotinoids. Prior to his appointment, Kennedy railed against agricultural chemicals.

However, at a press conference during the recent Great American Farmers’ Market, in response to a question about whether the second MAHA report would include recommendations to restrict the use of some chemicals, he deferred to Rollins.

“There is no question that the use of crop protection tools remains one of the most important tools, if not the most important, to our farmers to thrive and to remain prosperous,” Rollins said, adding that Kennedy has met with 130 farmer and rancher groups. “I’ve also heard him say, ‘We can’t compromise our farmers and their ability to feed and fuel and clothe the world.’ I feel very confident that his and our commitment to make sure farmers are at the table remains paramount, and that the report will reflect that.” Asked to weigh in, Kennedy said he had nothing to add.

Recently, a legislative rider has also gained steam among Republicans in Congress that would help shield Bayer and other pesticide companies from lawsuits claiming their products cause health harms.

White Oak Pasture’s Harris has spoken out about this kind of “pesticide immunity” bill, a version of which passed this year in his state of Georgia. While he acknowledges some worry about the impacts of climate change, he’s especially concerned about the ecosystem collapse caused by pesticide use and other factors.

“I think one of the things we got wrong is this thing of killing the pest,” he said. “I believe that every creature—plant, animal, or microbe—that lives in and is indigenous to an ecosystem has a role in that ecosystem,” he said. “I think we’re not smart enough to know what it is [for every creature]. And the fact that we have driven and are driving so many species of plants and animals and microbes into extinction or near extinction is worrying to me.”

Does he think, then, that a successful MAHA policy plan for regenerative agriculture needs to address that fact? “Absolutely,” he said. Like many others, he’s waiting to see what happens next.

Politico just published a draft version of the MAHA Commission’s policy recommendations, which are currently being reviewed by the White House and could change significantly before being finalized.

The last section of the report is titled “Soil Health and Stewardship of the Land.”  But not one of the four bullet points in the section includes concrete policy steps or positions.

For now, it seems as though not even the MAHA Commission will provide clarity any time soon about the administration’s plans for regenerative farming.

“We don’t know what the program is yet,” Harris said. “Powerful people have been instructed to come up with a program, so that’s promising.”

The post Should Regenerative Farmers Pin Hopes on RFK Jr.’s MAHA? appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/08/19/should-regenerative-farmers-pin-hopes-on-rfk-jr-s-maha/feed/ 0 The MAHA Movement’s Climate Conundrum https://civileats.com/2025/08/12/the-maha-movements-climate-conundrum/ https://civileats.com/2025/08/12/the-maha-movements-climate-conundrum/#respond Tue, 12 Aug 2025 08:01:10 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=66534 This is the first in a series of articles examining the promises and policies of the MAHA movement. “The health and the vibrancy of American farms is critical to the success of the MAHA movement,” Kennedy said during his opening remarks. “We have the best farmers in the world in our country. We have people […]

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This is the first in a series of articles examining the promises and policies of the MAHA movement.

At a Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) roundtable in Washington, D.C. in July, Secretary of Health and Human Services Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and Secretary of Agriculture Brooke Rollins sat down to speak with invited farmers about the topic at hand: soil health.

“The health and the vibrancy of American farms is critical to the success of the MAHA movement,” Kennedy said during his opening remarks. “We have the best farmers in the world in our country. We have people who are developing innovative techniques for restoring the soil, for restoring the microbiome, for producing the healthiest food in the world, and one of the purposes of this meeting is to get that message out to the rest of America: that there’s hope.”

Elisa Lane is one of those innovators. Lane owns Two Boots Farm in Northern Maryland, where she tends to a 200-tree pawpaw orchard, grows vegetable seedlings for home gardeners in the spring, and harvests endless varieties of flowers that get arranged into farmers’ market and bridal bouquets. She does it all without pesticides or tilling, while building soil fertility with a variety of cover crops and compost.

But on a sweltering day a week before the roundtable, with a heat advisory in effect, one thing she was thinking about—for the first time—was crop insurance.

Over the last decade, she explained while hanging freshly harvested garlic in her barn, it’s been getting hotter. Her crew starts at 5 a.m. some days to get field work done before the unbearable heat sets in. Summers are drier. The weather varies more wildly. When storms hit, they seem more intense than in the past.

A worker at Two Boots Farms hand weeds fields in a pesticide-free field, with a heat advisory in effect. Behind her is the solar array that was delayed to the USDA funding freeze. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

A worker at Two Boots Farms hand-weeds a pesticide-free field during a heat advisory. Behind her is the solar array that was delayed due to the USDA funding freeze. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

“They come on so fast and so quick. I just remember that happening in the last three years or so,” she said. “That causes power outages, which is something I’m so nervous about. If we have a cooler worth of stuff, it could all spoil.” The thing that scares her the most, though, is the prospect of losing entire crops, which is what happened recently on two nearby farms during hailstorms.

It’s not just hail. In recent years, Hurricane Helene damaged or destroyed crops on close to 5 million acres of North Carolina farmland. Farmers in Vermont lost vegetable crops worth millions of dollars to unprecedented flooding. In the West, some farms couldn’t plant crops due to historic drought conditions; others lost crops and livestock herds to wildfires.

While it’s difficult to attribute any single weather event to climate change, the evidence is clear that more frequent and intense extreme-weather events are making it increasingly challenging for farmers to grow healthy food regardless of their ability to innovate, complicating the MAHA movement’s goals.

The last report from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) offered two big takeaways, said Rachel Bezner Kerr, the lead author of a chapter about climate impacts on food, fiber, and ecosystems. Overall agricultural productivity has been reduced from what it would have been with less or no global warming, and more robust evidence now shows extreme weather events are diminishing food security and nutrition.

“Going forward, unless we’re able to significantly reduce our greenhouse gas emissions, those impacts are going to be quite severe,” Kerr said.

Elisa Lane in her 200-tree pawpaw orchard. “I’ve heard people say that farmers are on the frontlines of climate change,” she said. “Someone smarter than me said that, but it’s true.” (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

Elisa Lane in her pawpaw orchard. “I’ve heard people say that farmers are on the frontlines of climate change,” she said. “Someone smarter than me said that, but it’s true.” (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

However, in Washington, D.C., the Trump administration’s actions are likely to increase U.S. emissions. During the first week of his presidency, Trump signed executive orders withdrawing the U.S. from the Paris Climate Agreement, rolling back electric vehicle subsidies, and directing his agencies to increase the production of fossil fuels.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has since proposed removing all limits on greenhouse gas emissions from power plants and overturning the finding that allows the agency to regulate greenhouse gas emissions.

Meanwhile, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) has canceled programs and contracts that pay farmers to use climate-friendly practices and has stripped the word “climate” from its vocabulary. Trump’s sweeping tax legislation, which Republicans in Congress named the “One Big Beautiful Bill,” also dismantles Biden-era climate actions and boosts the fossil-fuel industry.

Trump has promised that the administration is fully invested in Kennedy’s MAHA movement goals to reduce chronic disease by, among other actions, getting Americans to eat more fresh, healthy, whole foods.

But in response to questions from Civil Eats, White House spokesperson Kush Desai said the administration is not concerned by the fact that climate change is compromising the country’s ability to produce that food.

“When nearly 70 percent of American children’s caloric intake comes from ultra-processed foods—contributing to obesity, diabetes, and other chronic conditions—the Make America Healthy Again movement has more pressing short term priorities to address than vague climate change concerns about agricultural yields and nutrient density,” he said in an email.

As a result, it’s unlikely that the second MAHA report—which will be submitted to the White House this week and is aimed at helping Americans eat healthier—will include climate policy directives, even if experts say they should undoubtedly be included.

“If you’re thinking about the importance of things like fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds . . . very important foods that prevent diseases in our diet, then you need to think about, ‘How do we address climate change so that food production, both quality and quantity, remains stable?’” said Samuel Myers, the director of the Johns Hopkins Institute for Planetary Health. “That also will help with prices for Americans and protecting pollinator populations in the U.S. and abroad.”

Quantity and Quality of Food Impacted

Myers has worked on multiple research studies assessing how rising emissions impact both how much food we can grow and the quality of that food. At first, as levels of carbon dioxide rise, a phenomenon called “CO2 fertilization” takes place, he explained, which can cause small gains in crop yields. But those gains tend to max out around 10 percent. And since that rising CO2 level is, at the same time, contributing to more heat and extreme weather, he added that the tradeoff isn’t worth it.

At this point, the data from around the world is clear. “We can say decisively that productivity is lower than what it would be if there was no climate change,” said Kerr.

“Going forward, unless we’re able to significantly reduce our greenhouse gas emissions, impacts on food security and nutrition are going to be quite severe.”


New research published in June identified yet another consequence of those reduced yields. As yields decline, farmers clear more land to grow food. As a result, more than 200 million acres of cropland in use today can be attributed to climate-change-driven yield loss. And as more land is cleared for farming, emissions increase, since forested land sequesters much more carbon.

“With a warming climate, we’re seeing a decrease in the productivity of our croplands around the world, and then as a result of that, in order to have the same amount of production, we are having to clear a lot more land, which then has an impact on the climate,” said Paul West, a senior scientist at Project Drawdown, who was an author on the paper. “So it ends up creating a vicious cycle.”

Myers’ research has also shown that the food that is being grown is not as healthy as it once was: Rising concentrations of CO2 in the atmosphere affect plant growth in a way that reduces the nutrient content of many important crops.

“We’ve found that crops grown at CO2 concentrations we expect to see by the middle of the century have reduced levels of things like iron and zinc and protein, which are super important from a health standpoint,” he said. “And then we find that potentially hundreds of millions of people get pushed into micronutrient deficiencies because of just the CO2 effect alone.”

“If you’re thinking about the importance of things like fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds, very important foods that prevent diseases in our diet, then you need to think about, ‘How do we address climate change so that food production, both quality and quantity, remains stable?’”



In the U.S., that’s unlikely to happen, because our diets are more diverse compared to those of low-income countries that rely heavily on staple food crops. But Myers said climate change also threatens a wide range of foods that provide Americans with important nutrients. For example, the size and distribution of fisheries are changing, and it’s getting harder to raise livestock in certain places as heat and drought conditions increase.

Myers also worked on another study that found many scientific and policy reports underestimate how much food security is likely to be threatened in coming years because they often leave out other factors that intersect with climate change.

Over the last 10,000 years, he said, agriculture was optimized to conditions that were almost entirely stable. Now, everything about growing a crop—from temperature and water supply to pollination and pest pressure—is up in the air.

“We’re changing those biophysical conditions at the fastest rate in the history of our species,” he said. “It’s the climate that we’re changing, but it’s also biodiversity loss and pollution and changes in access to water. It’s not just climate change, it’s everything change.”

In addition to backtracking on a transition away from fossil fuels, President Trump’s EPA is rolling back numerous regulations intended to prevent pollution and safeguard biodiversity.

Forced by Climate to Cut Back on Healthy Crops

The increased prevalence of extreme weather is also causing farmers to make decisions that result in fewer healthy foods ending up on American plates. On the western side of the Colorado Rockies, in a special microclimate that makes it possible to grow fruit in an area that doesn’t normally allow it, Steve Ela grows peaches, pears, apples, plums, sweet cherries, heirloom tomatoes, and rhubarb on land that has been certified organic for more than 20 years.

Ela is a fourth-generation farmer, and his produce, grown in soil that has more than double the organic matter compared to the local average, is sold at seven Colorado farmers’ markets.

Steve Ela packing apples grown at Ela Family Farms, where he’s recently been taking acres of trees out of production due to climate change-linked reductions in water.

Steve Ela packs apples at Ela Family Farms, where he’s recently taken trees out of production due to concerns about water availability. (Photo credit: Regan Choi)

However, his farm’s viability is entirely dependent on the annual snowpack, which melts into reservoirs that feed his irrigation systems. Several studies have documented declining snowpack in Colorado over the past several decades, caused by rising temperatures and declining precipitation.

There have always been drought cycles, Ela said, but in the past several years, there have been more of them. Last year, after not enough snowpack accumulated, the runoff season was short. When rain didn’t come, he had to start using the reservoir water about three months earlier than normal.

“That reservoir only holds so much water, and if you have to use it for a longer period of time, it’s just like a bank account,” he said. “You can stretch it out, but there’s only X amount there.”

This year, after another dry winter, they’ll run out of water for some of his apple trees in mid-August, with the harvest not happening until October. “If you stretch them, you beat them, you malnourish them, they just don’t come back the same,” he said. “There’s a lasting scar. It’s something that causes damage for multiple years.” After a historic fall freeze a few years ago, for example, his apple and pear trees looked okay, he said, but then he didn’t get a good crop on them for three years.

As a result of his water challenges, he’s started taking acres of trees out of production. It’s the only obvious solution he can see at the moment, he said: If there’s going to be less water available, he’s going to grow less fruit.

“The interaction between MAHA and climate change, it’s an awkward dance,” Ela said. As a dedicated environmentalist, he’s worried about the changing climate. But he also sees the value in the MAHA movement’s message, because “I think we could eat a lot healthier,” he said.

Heirloom tomatoes grown at Ela Family Farms. (Photo credit: Regan Choi)

Heirloom tomatoes grown at Ela Family Farms. (Photo credit: Regan Choi)

Can the Soil Save Us?

“Farmers are definitely responding to more extreme weather, and that makes it difficult to plan,” said Kate Mendenhall, an Iowa farmer who also serves as the executive director of the Organic Farmers Association. “We have so much knowledge about climate change and what type of practices help or hurt the planet and make for a more stable growing environment. I think they see and are experiencing the effects of climate change and want to be able to keep farming and have a little bit more stability.”

In fact, a 2022 survey by the Organic Farming Research Foundation found that 80 percent of farmers transitioning to organic practices cited “greater resilience to climate change” as a motivating factor.

“We’ve found that crops grown at CO2 concentrations we expect to see by the middle of the century have reduced levels of things like iron and zinc and protein, which are super important from a health standpoint.”

Kennedy is a longtime critic of pesticide use and promoter of organic practices, and his MAHA movement includes many farmers and consumers who are pushing for more support for organic and regenerative agriculture. These two approaches to agriculture, which intersect and overlap in different ways depending on how they’re practiced, can build healthy soil and biodiversity on farms, creating systems that are both better for the climate and improve the nutrition of the food produced.

But so far, the administration’s actions have done more to hurt organic and regenerative farmers than help them. The USDA retooled the Partnerships for Climate-Smart Commodities Program in a way that led to thousands of farms around the country losing funding allocated to implement regenerative practices. Secretary of Agriculture Brooke Rollins has also canceled more than a billion dollars in funding for local food programs that primarily benefit regenerative and organic farms.

Instead, Republicans’ One Big Beautiful Bill will send more dollars to conventional, commodity farms that rely on large-scale, chemical-intensive farming practices.

Some farmers are optimistic that the upcoming MAHA report will include policy recommendations related to soil health and regenerative agriculture. However, powerful agricultural lobby groups have been pushing back on that front, especially on any provisions regulating pesticide use, and ultimately Kennedy is not in charge of farm policy. Still, he hinted at his desire to push things in that direction.

As a result of his water challenges, Steve Ela has started taking acres of trees out of production. It’s the only obvious solution he can see at the moment, he said: If there’s going to be less water available, he’s going to grow less fruit.

“We need to give off-ramps to farmers so that they can transition to biodynamic agriculture, regenerative agriculture, and do it in a way that is going to maintain the vibrancy of their farms,” he said at the July roundtable. “We have a president now who is not only absolutely committed to the survival and prosperity of American farmers but is also looking around the corners, who is looking to the future.”

The trouble is, even if farm policy bucks the Big Ag headwinds and takes up the IPPC recommendations to shift to more regenerative, diversified systems, it won’t be enough to guarantee a future filled with healthy food if the administration continues to roll the clock back on overall emissions, Kerr said.

“I think it’s very hard to adapt if we are going over 1.5 [degrees Celsius of warming], and if we are ramping up our greenhouse gas emissions,” she said. “The adaptation strategies that we’ve identified are not adequate in the face of that kind of global warming.”

Elisa Lane, owner of Two Boots Farm, with the solar array that sits behind her fields on the edge of forested acres. Installation of the system was delayed to the USDA funding freeze. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

Elisa Lane, owner of Two Boots Farm, with the solar array that sits behind her fields on the edge of forested acres. Installation of the system was delayed to the USDA funding freeze. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

At Two Boots Farm, Lane is doing her part on all fronts. In addition to building healthy soil and keeping a biodiverse forest intact on most of her acreage, she recently installed a solar array to shift the farm to renewable energy. The project was delayed significantly when the grant funding she had received from the USDA through a program that helps farmers install solar was frozen. It has since been unfrozen, and she’s now close to getting it up and running.

The system will save her around $500 per month in energy costs, she estimates, but she’s not sure if tax credits she was hoping for were eliminated in the One Big Beautiful Bill. Next on her list is crop insurance, which is difficult for small, diversified farms like hers to qualify and apply for.

In 2022, crop insurance subsidies cost taxpayers a record $19.3 billion, up from an average that stayed under $4 billion in the early aughts.

“The government will hopefully help in one way or another,” Lane said. “They have the ability to help on the front end with resiliency, or they’re going to be helping us on the back end, when everybody’s screwed financially because we’re losing crops.”

The post The MAHA Movement’s Climate Conundrum appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/08/12/the-maha-movements-climate-conundrum/feed/ 0 Could Child Care Centers Strengthen Local Food Systems? https://civileats.com/2025/07/28/could-child-care-centers-strengthen-local-food-systems/ https://civileats.com/2025/07/28/could-child-care-centers-strengthen-local-food-systems/#respond Mon, 28 Jul 2025 08:00:20 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=66072 Last year, federal stabilization grants provided to the child care sector during the pandemic ended, leaving many centers in “survival mode,” says Bloom, a local foods extension specialist who is diligently working to build relationships between child care facilities and small farmers. Through her research, Bloom, herself a mom, hopes to improve food access for […]

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Ever since the pandemic, the child care sector has grappled with tight budgets, staffing shortages, and low wages. Dara Bloom, an associate professor at North Carolina State University, has watched over the years as many of these centers have struggled to serve fresh fruits and vegetables to kids, especially when inflation and food prices soared.

Last year, federal stabilization grants provided to the child care sector during the pandemic ended, leaving many centers in “survival mode,” says Bloom, a local foods extension specialist who is diligently working to build relationships between child care facilities and small farmers. Through her research, Bloom, herself a mom, hopes to improve food access for underserved communities and economic opportunities for small farmers. She says the child care sector can play a key role—if given the chance.

“Those early [childhood] stages are so important, especially in terms of health and nutrition. It’s a chance to set children’s taste preferences early.”

Child care centers were set to receive a helping hand this year, after the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) expanded the Local Food for Schools (LFS) program last October to include child care sites. Under the Biden administration, the program earmarked $188.6 million for fresh, local produce for child care facilities already participating in the Child and Adult Care Food Program, which reimburses the centers for providing healthful meals and snacks.

Participating sites range from home-based ones serving up to 15 kids to large private daycare providers and programs connected to public school systems, such as Head Start and Early Head Start.

The additional LFS funding would have been a game-changer for the child care industry, Bloom says. But five months after the USDA expanded the LFS program to child care, the Trump administration terminated the program. The decision sparked extensive media coverage of the impact on schools and food banks, but child care didn’t receive much attention—because it had yet to receive any funding.

However, child care, an often-overlooked sector, could become a larger part of local food systems, Bloom says. Through a farm to early care and education (ECE) program at the Center for Environmental Farming Systems, where Bloom also serves as assistant director, she tests and evaluates local food supply chains for child care that help create better markets for farmers.

The center then creates resources to help others replicate these systems in their own communities—for example, a step-by-step local food-buying guide for child care that offers guidance on understanding ingredient seasonality, where to find farmers, and how to order and incorporate local farm food on menus.

Civil Eats recently spoke to Bloom about her research, healthy eating habits for children, and how the child care sector can support small and midsize farms.

Dara Bloom visits a farm participating in a farm-to-ECE program and selling produce to a group of childcare facilities. (Photo credit: Bhavisha Gulabrai)

Dara Bloom visits Locklear Farms in Pembroke, North Carolina, which sells produce to a group of child care facilities as part of a farm-to-ECE program. (Photo credit: Bhavisha Gulabrai)

What are some of the ingredients of a resilient local food system?

In North Carolina, one of the things that has helped our local food system and issues of accessibility is a strong food hub network. If you look at our food system over the years, as things got bigger, we lost some local and regional food system infrastructure.

Food hubs are produce distributors, and a lot of them, especially in North Carolina, are nonprofits, and so they have a social mission. This includes working with small-to-midsize farmers who often need training to produce for a wholesale market, in terms of scale and [compliance with] food safety requirements. Many of our food hubs are selling to schools, and we’ve worked with them to increase purchasing for child care centers. That middle infrastructure along the supply chain really helps.

What role can child care sites play in our food system?

We know from the research how important early childhood is developmentally, in terms of education and emotional, social, behavioral learning. Those early stages are also important in terms of health and nutrition. It’s a chance to set children’s taste preferences early.

Research shows it can take anywhere from eight to 15 exposures to new types of fruits and vegetables for kids to develop those preferences. And if you are a low-income family, it’s hard to put food on the plate that you know your kid isn’t going to eat, eight to 15 times.

You want to give your kid something they’re going to eat, that is going to fill them up, and that they’ll love, especially if you’re on a tight budget and maybe have to say no to a lot of things. So, there is this opportunity in child care to do what maybe some low-income families wouldn’t be able to do, which is to increase that exposure.

Children learn about fresh fruit and vegetables with hands-on activities like making spinach smoothies. (Photo credit: Marcello Cappellazzi)An art project helps children practice their writing and drawing skills while integrating farm-to-ECE program learning. (Photo credit: Marcello Cappellazzi)

Children learn about fresh fruit and vegetables with hands-on activities like making spinach smoothies and art projects. (Photo credit: Marcello Cappellazzi)

What challenges do child care providers face in buying and serving local food?

Over the years, there has been a shift to purchasing more processed foods or relying on canned or frozen foods, especially produce. There can be a lot of work to help those [child care] buyers look at their menus, understand seasonality, and find recipes to try new local products. They also need to figure out how to have the staff time, the skill set, and the equipment that’s needed to process local food, especially fresh fruits and vegetables.

Post-COVID, they’re struggling with staffing. We’ve heard stories about child care programs that will lose their cook and so they’ve got teachers or the director coming in to cook meals. I’ve seen reports that staff wages are so low that they’re often on public assistance themselves.

Finding local farmers and knowing how to approach them or work with them is also a challenge, since that takes extra time, which centers often just don’t have. Space and storage are another piece. I’ve visited some child care centers with kitchens that are smaller than my home kitchen, and they might be preparing a breakfast, snack, lunch, and maybe even an afternoon snack for 150 kids. In that situation, it helps to have pre-chopped fruits and vegetables.

Much of your work is focused on farm-to-ECE programs. What are they and how would the Local Food for Schools funding have impacted farm-to-ECE initiatives?

We see farm-to-ECE programs as having three components. One is local food procurement: sourcing from farmers and getting local food on the plate for meals and snacks. Two is experiential learning in the garden. And three is food-based learning, exposing kids to cooking in the classroom. There’s something about that experiential piece of being in the garden and experiencing the food in the classroom setting and learning about it. Then it’s on the plate, they’ve had those repeated exposures and are more likely to eat it.

When we started doing this work, we heard from a teacher at a child care center who said that parents would ask, “What’s going on? I didn’t think my kid would eat this [vegetable].” They’re so surprised when those behaviors carry over at home. We had a parent who said they went to the supermarket, and their kid was yelling, “I want broccoli!”

Our hope with the funding was to reach new child care programs and expand farm-to-ECE programming to reach more children and families.

Obviously, the funding never began, but farmers could have benefited, too. What can you say about the loss of that money for farmers?

This was an opportunity to introduce farmers to a new market, create interest, and train technical assistance providers at the county level. This assistance could help farmers with barriers to selling to the school system, such as the Good Agricultural Products certification, which can be hard for smaller-scale farmers because of the cost and paperwork.

“The child care market can be a great starting point for farmers who are interested in shifting toward wholesale.”

Also, the school system can be so large that farmers don’t have enough volume for it. Child care is not the largest market, but it can be a great outlet for a smaller scale farm that’s not going to be able to meet the demands of a larger market like the school system.

Child care can also be a great starting point, almost like a steppingstone, for farmers who are interested in shifting toward wholesale. The child care market gives them the chance to work with an institutional buyer while they build their own infrastructure, with the hope that maybe they’ll be able to scale up someday to serve that larger market.

How were you and other food-system players preparing for the funding?

The funding could only be spent on local food, so it had to go directly to farmers—which was a great benefit for farmers, but it didn’t cover any overhead, like administrative fees, for non-farmers. It was hard to find an organization with the capacity to handle that much funding without being able to hire someone or pay for someone’s time to manage the funds, distribution, and record-keeping that would come with it.

We worked with the North Carolina Department of Agriculture to do outreach to partners we thought could distribute the funds. We worked closely with Working Landscapes, which is a food hub that was taking a leadership role in organizing other food hubs around the state. They felt strongly enough that it fit their mission and would be such a benefit to themselves and other food hubs that they were willing to be the fiscal sponsor.

Where will you go from here?

Moving forward, we’ll continue supporting our partners with the resources we have, and then in the future we’re trying to have a plan so that if there is ever funding available, we will know how to best implement it in a way that supports all stakeholders.

We’re trying to continue supporting child care centers, farmers, and food hubs, and we’re hoping to organize regional meetups over the summer. We’re still trying to bring those partners—food hubs and child care centers—to the table. We are creating resource documents from our research, like a local food buying guide for child care centers.

The possibility to work on the program is still there. But sometimes it feels like a lot to ask of child care providers. If they’re struggling to get by, it can be hard to take this extra time and energy and find the funds to do this. But we also know that child care programs are dedicated to the health of the children they serve.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

The post Could Child Care Centers Strengthen Local Food Systems? appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2025/07/28/could-child-care-centers-strengthen-local-food-systems/feed/ 0 Op-ed: Through Acts of Solidarity, We Can Support Immigrants in the Food Chain and Beyond https://civileats.com/2025/07/22/op-ed-through-acts-of-solidarity-we-can-support-immigrants-in-the-foodchain-and-beyond/ https://civileats.com/2025/07/22/op-ed-through-acts-of-solidarity-we-can-support-immigrants-in-the-foodchain-and-beyond/#comments Tue, 22 Jul 2025 08:00:06 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=66200 As I grew older, I came to realize that this was my mother’s ingenious way of connecting to home, even as we were putting down roots in a new land. In this way, we built a life here, away from a dangerous civil war in our home country. I grew up cooking alongside my family, […]

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As a kid, I used to cringe when my mom would pull the car over on the side of the freeway. She’d spot something growing wild in the hills around Los Angeles and jump out of the car, searching for flor de izote, a white flower that’s part of everyday cooking in El Salvador, our home country. When she found some, my mom would take it home and cook it with huevos estrellados con tomate (fried eggs with tomatoes) or stir it into a cheese filling for pupusa.

As I grew older, I came to realize that this was my mother’s ingenious way of connecting to home, even as we were putting down roots in a new land. In this way, we built a life here, away from a dangerous civil war in our home country.

I grew up cooking alongside my family, and I saw firsthand how assimilation was wrecking our health. Not only were we lacking access to our customary nutritious foods, but everyone was working hard, too, up to 16 hours a day, which left little time for meals beyond fast food.

I went away from home for college, and one day, I got a terrible call: My dad had suffered a heart attack. I knew that stress and poor eating habits had finally taken a toll. I decided then to work to change the broken food system that had failed my family.

As executive director of the Los Angeles Food Policy Council, an anti-hunger advocacy organization, I am heartbroken to see the Trump administration’s efforts to destroy this kind of work, uprooting people and food systems along the way. Our food system should nourish people, with dignity, care, and justice. That means everyone. Immigrant families, food workers, and small vendors are not threats; they are essential to our communities.

Immigrants play a vital role across the entire food system—from agriculture, food processing plants, distribution, and the service industries. They make up the labor force that produces, sells, delivers, and prepares our food. (Photo credit: LA Food Policy Council)

Immigrants comprise two-thirds of Los Angeles’s food service workers, and nearly 80 percent of the industry’s workers are Latino. (Photo credit: LA Food Policy Council)

Empty Markets, Corner Stores, and Farm Fields

Immigrants play a vital role across the entire food system—from agriculture, food processing plants, distribution, and the service industries. They make up the labor force that produces, sells, delivers, and prepares our food.

In Ventura County, a major agricultural area north of Los Angeles, about 60 percent of the 255,000 agricultural workers are undocumented immigrants, underscoring how vital their labor is to local farming. As a result of the recent immigration raids there, the city of Oxnard reported worker absenteeism as high as 70 percent, resulting in unharvested strawberry crops and projected losses exceeding $100,000 per week per farm.

“These days, I find myself trying to explain to my little ones why families like ours are being torn apart. Why innocent, hard-working people are being pulled into vans by masked men without explanation or due process.”

The historic L.A. 7th Street produce market, which supplies the region’s restaurants and small grocers with fresh fruits and vegetables, has seen empty stalls and slow business, because workers and buyers aren’t coming.

Corner stores in South Central LA are quietly losing their regulars, too; people are afraid to shop, work, or even be seen.

I recently visited a small market in the Pico Union neighborhood, where a vendor I’ve known for years stood behind a table full of produce that would likely go unsold.

“No viene nadie,” she said—no one is comingas she described what this major setback would mean for the financial wellbeing of her family business. They’ve since pivoted to offer delivery service for their regular customers.

In Los Angeles County, immigrants make up 66 percent of food service workers, and 79 percent are Latino. Without them, many restaurants, catering businesses, and institutions would struggle to function.

In neighborhoods where immigrant-run food enterprises thrive—like MacArthur Park, Boyle Heights, and South L.A.—recent ICE raids devastated business: at a central fresh-produce market, daily sales plunged from $2,000 to $300, an 85 percent drop in revenue as vendors and customers stayed away in fear.

Safety Nets Disappearing

All of this is happening while our safety nets are being stripped away. SNAP, called CalFresh here in California, has long been a lifeline for families trying to get by. Last year, nearly 5 million Californians relied on it to put food on the table. The average benefit was just $189 a month, while the cost of groceries for a family with children is often over $1,200.

This budget was a struggle for many households, even before prices started rising. Now, under the Trump administration’s latest policies, fewer people will qualify for CalFresh, and many immigrants are too afraid to even apply. I’ve heard from families who’ve stopped showing up to the food pantry because they’re worried their names will end up on a list. The people who grow and cook our food are quietly skipping meals so their children can eat.

It’s a painful irony: Immigrant workers who fuel this economy, who bring in billions of dollars through farming, restaurants, and food businesses, are going hungry. But these policies don’t just punish individuals; they also weaken the entire structure of our food system, from labor to access to dignity. When we push people deeper into fear and poverty, we all feel the ripple effects.

These days, I find myself trying to explain to my little ones why families like ours are being torn apart. Why innocent, hard-working people are being pulled into vans by masked men without explanation or due process. Why people are afraid to shop for groceries. Why they’re afraid to walk to school or go to work.

In South Central, where my tía lives, her neighbor, Rosa, works as a cook for a taco street vendor in the Piñata District. A single mother of a 1-year-old boy, she usually brings him to work. Her boss recently told her it’s too risky for her to come in. Rosa’s $110 daily income vanished, but rent didn’t, and her food needs didn’t.

The Republicans’ “Big, Beautiful Bill,” passed earlier this month by the slimmest of margins, will only make things worse. We’ll see more of Trump’s agents of chaos on our streets, tearing families apart, driving workers into hiding, and dismantling the systems that keep people fed.

How Citizens Can Help

These systems, built up over decades, are falling apart when they are needed most. The cost of living continues to rise, but under the current administration, programs like SNAP are under threat, along with funding for programs that help keep nutritious food on people’s plates.

In our organization, we’ve pivoted our Farm Fresh LA program, and we are quietly working with trusted community groups to deliver locally grown produce to families who are too afraid to show up in public.

It’s a daunting task, sneaking food to people in this powerful country of plenty.

But we are undeterred. And we are not alone. In fact, there is much that can be done. Citizens can help by buying from farmers’ markets that source locally and equitably; supporting CSAs (community supported agriculture programs) run by worker-led farms; purchasing from local small markets and family-owned restaurants; and choosing produce from farms that treat their workers with dignity.

These are not just economic choices. These are small acts of solidarity, and they add up.

Beyond that, we all need to create coalitions and movements with long-lasting impact. In 2017, for example, our organization led a successful campaign to mandate that all farmers’ markets accept EBT (the debit cards for CalFresh benefits). It was a big step toward making fresh, local food more accessible to low-income families, and it’s the kind of work that we need even more of now.

We need to strengthen networks, too, tying together community-based organizations with deep, trusted relationships in immigrant communities. Trusted organizations have been on the ground every day, providing food delivery, wage recovery support, legal navigation, and culturally rooted care to families who have been abandoned by the system. We must support and connect the work of organizations who offer legal, housing, and food help—including food delivery.

I now look back on my mother’s search for the flor de izote not with embarrassment, but with pride. As a mother myself and a citizen of this country, I recognize the hard work she put in as we built a new life. Immigrant communities in Los Angeles have always made a way out of no way. We root ourselves in the cracks—and we bloom.

But we shouldn’t have to do it alone, and we shouldn’t have to do it in fear. With care, collaboration, and compassion—even now, against these powerful forces—we can create a food system and a community that helps everyone thrive.

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/07/22/op-ed-through-acts-of-solidarity-we-can-support-immigrants-in-the-foodchain-and-beyond/feed/ 1 Op-ed: The Big Beautiful Bill Won’t Make America Healthy Again https://civileats.com/2025/07/15/op-ed-the-big-beautiful-bill-wont-make-america-healthy-again66076/ https://civileats.com/2025/07/15/op-ed-the-big-beautiful-bill-wont-make-america-healthy-again66076/#respond Tue, 15 Jul 2025 08:01:13 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=66076 The bill includes the most significant cuts ever enacted to federal benefit programs such as Medicaid and the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP). Millions of Americans will be hungrier and sicker as a result of the OBBBA. It’s also an absolute contradiction to the claims and narrative of the Trump administration’s Make America Healthy Again […]

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On July 4, President Trump signed into law the One Big Beautiful Bill Act (OBBBA). While the OBBBA may be beautiful for the ultra-rich, for most Americans it will be brutal, especially for the most vulnerable, with experts asserting that this is the most regressive tax and budget bill in modern U.S. history.

The bill includes the most significant cuts ever enacted to federal benefit programs such as Medicaid and the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP). Millions of Americans will be hungrier and sicker as a result of the OBBBA. It’s also an absolute contradiction to the claims and narrative of the Trump administration’s Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) platform, and a betrayal to the voters who feel an affinity to MAHA due to its stated focus on fighting chronic disease.

Given the devastating impacts of the OBBBA, what MAHA will ultimately accomplish under the Trump Administration is questionable.

In May, Health and Human Services (HHS) Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and the MAHA Commission released the Make Our Children Healthy Again Assessment. This first “MAHA report” asserted that the health of American children is in crisis, in part due to poor diet, lack of physical activity, and exposure to harmful chemicals.

As public health advocates, we at the Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI) wholeheartedly agree with this diagnosis. This newfound federal focus on nutrition, chemical safety, and chronic disease could be a dream come true for advocates like CSPI, presenting a potential opportunity for tangible policy action that can directly improve Americans’ health and wellbeing.

“This new law absolutely contradicts the claims and narrative of the Trump administration’s MAHA platform.”

But the devil is in the details, as we’ve seen play out with the passage of the OBBBA. While the MAHA Commission is seeking to address a serious problem, whether it can successfully prevent and treat chronic disease depends on which factors the members deem to be driving the problem, what policy solutions they will choose to pursue, and who they will hold accountable.

All these details will likely form the basis of the next MAHA Commission report, which will be released in August and include recommended policy strategies. We will be watching closely.

There are some good ideas in the first MAHA report that we would like to see operationalized. Of concern, however, is that these good ideas are almost always contradicted by what the administration has done since January and is now planning to do through the OBBBA. Here are a few examples of what the first report says and how it contradicts what has actually been set in motion.

Radical Transparency and Gold-Standard Science

What they say: “The U.S. government is committed to fostering radical transparency and gold-standard science.”

What they do: There are no authors listed on the report, the single meeting of the MAHA Commission before the report’s release was conducted behind closed doors, and the report does not have a Methods section to explain how the authors came to their conclusions. There have also been serious concerns raised with the scientific integrity of the entire report due to misinterpretations and misattributions of citations, as well as citations to studies that do not exist—which were likely written by AI.

Furthermore, entire sections of the report regurgitate RFK Jr.’s pre-conceived, unsubstantiated beliefs (e.g., false claims about the harms of seed oils). He recently publicly promoted a restaurant chain that chose to fry its potatoes in beef tallow instead of seed oils—a move restaurants switched away from over 30 years ago due to strong evidence that beef tallow’s high saturated fat content increases the risk of heart disease, the number one killer in America.

Support for Local Foods and Farmers

What they say: “The greatest step the United States can take to reverse childhood chronic disease is to put whole foods produced by American farmers and ranchers at the center of healthcare.”

What they do: The administration terminated over $1 billion in funding for programs aiding schools and food banks in purchasing food from local producers. Farmers are speaking out about the cumulative negative impact of the Administration’s actions on their livelihoods, and school food service providers are advocating for increased funding to support the provision of healthy, locally sourced foods in school meal programs.

Funding High-Quality Research

What they say: “Industry interests dominate and distort scientific literature,” so more independent research funding is needed for the National Institutes of Health (NIH).

What they do: The administration has proposed slashing NIH research funding by 40 percent, unlawfully terminated thousands of grants (which CSPI successfully challenged in court), and censored NIH research with which the administration disagreed ideologically. The administration is also actively attacking academic institutions and casting doubt on the integrity of the world’s leading medical journals, even suggesting government scientists will be barred from publishing in them.

Food Chemical Safety

What they say: “Children are exposed to an increasing number of synthetic chemicals, some of which have been linked to developmental issues and chronic disease. The current regulatory framework should be continually evaluated to ensure that chemicals and other exposures do not interact together to pose a threat to the health of our children.”

What they do: In April, the Administration fired all 200 employees in the Centers for Disease Control’s Division of Environmental Health Science and Practice, which is responsible for preventing exposure to environmental hazards, including lead poisoning in children. Then, in early June, agency staff received emails indicating that they should come back to work, but senior officials in the agency itself advised employees that the decision may not be final.

“Given the devastating impacts of the OBBBA, what MAHA will ultimately accomplish under the Trump Administration is questionable.”

This back-and-forth in staffing demonstrates a lack of commitment to protecting children from harmful chemicals and seriously undermines the agency’s morale.

We agree with that there is an urgent need to improve children’s health, but the policies of the administration as demonstrated by the passage of the OBBBA do just the opposite. It remains to be seen whether the policies recommended in their upcoming strategy report will align with that narrative, or whether we will continue to see federal actions that directly contradict the MAHA rhetoric.

To Protect Health, We Urge MAHA to Consider These Policies

In the areas of improving diet and reducing chemical exposures in childhood (two of the four drivers of chronic diseases listed in the MAHA report), we urge the MAHA Commission to consider the following evidence-based policies.

1. Publish Dietary Guidelines for Americans (DGAs) that adopt and uphold the science-based recommendations of the 2025 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee (DGAC).

Fifty-five public health and medical organizations, including CSPI, support this recommendation, given that the DGAs are required by law to reflect the preponderance of scientific evidence, which the DGAC has summarized in its recent Scientific Report. However, RFK Jr. has publicly stated that the DGAs will be only four pages long, raising questions about their scientific validity.

The DGAs matter not just for public dietary advice. They are also the cornerstone of federal nutrition programs and policies, directly shaping nutrition standards for national school meal programs, for example, and subsequently affecting the health of more than 30 million children who rely on those meals.

2. Address the food and nutrition security needs of vulnerable children and communities who will go hungry due to cuts to the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) in the OBBBA.

Nearly one in four U.S. children receive SNAP benefits, which help reduce poverty, food insecurity, healthcare expenditures, and risk of chronic conditions later in life. But those children—who are part of the 42.1 million people who rely on SNAP to put food on the table—will suffer due to the OBBBA.

To pay for tax cuts for the wealthiest Americans, the OBBBA includes clauses creating bureaucratic hoops that roughly 8 million people are projected to be unable to jump through, thus putting them at risk of losing their benefits.

“This newfound federal focus on nutrition, chemical safety, and chronic disease could be a dream come true. . . . But the devil is in the details.”

The OBBBA imposed new work requirements on both SNAP and Medicaid beneficiaries; removed the SNAP work requirement exemptions for veterans, former foster youth, and people experiencing homelessness; and blocked immigrants who are lawfully present in the U.S., such as refugees and asylum seekers, from receiving SNAP benefits. Work requirements like these ultimately increase costs to states and taxpayers, harm health, and drive struggling families deeper into poverty.

In addition to dealing with new work requirements, starting in 2027 state governments will need to pay an unprecedented share of the food benefits and administrative costs associated with SNAP. To cover these higher costs, states will scramble and likely resort to cutting benefits, limiting state employees’ salaries, raising state taxes, or eliminating funding for other programs. In the worst-case scenario, states could completely withdraw from the nation’s most important nutrition program entirely—a disaster in the making.

The OBBBA also limits future updates to the Thrifty Food Plan used to set SNAP benefit levels, which means that the government will have no flexibility to adjust SNAP benefits based on rising food prices, consumption patterns, or changes in dietary guidance.

If the MAHA Commission truly aims to improve childhood health, its next report must provide policy solutions to ensure that children in food-insecure households are able to access and afford nutritious food as the OBBBA’s provisions take effect.

3. Reinstate funding for SNAP Education (SNAP-Ed).

The OBBBA defunds SNAP-Ed, a nationwide program helping individuals eligible for SNAP make healthy choices on a limited budget. Evaluations of SNAP-Ed have demonstrated its power to help families across the country. With cuts to SNAP described above, this support is even more critical. HHS’s proposed $20 million “ Take Back Your Health” ad campaign is no substitute for the evidence-based strategies of SNAP-Ed, which was funded at $536 million in FY25.

4. Regulate the food industry to improve both chemical safety and nutrition.

The MAHA report repeatedly bemoans the food industry’s role in harming children’s health but concludes with calls for industry deregulation instead of increased accountability. We have seen this play out in reality, with RFK Jr. announcing plans to “phase out” synthetic food dyes, but leaving it up to the industry to voluntarily remove dyes.

To systematically improve food safety, the administration should take much-needed action on closing the Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) loophole, which allows companies to add new ingredients into the food supply without notifying FDA. So far, RFK Jr. has only ordered FDA to “explore” what can be done about the loophole.

And, while food chemical safety reform is important, it isn’t enough—the administration also needs to ensure that we’re getting proper nutrition. It can do this by finalizing front-of-package nutrition labeling on packaged foods and moving forward with added sugar and sodium reduction targets across the food supply.

Suggested Actions for Readers

Implementing these strategies will require the government to allocate the necessary funds (through appropriations) and personnel to agencies (by undoing the mass firings) so that federal workers can do their jobs.

You can act by signing letters and petitions to state and federal representatives around these issues, and by sharing your stories with your legislators and the media. You can also join CSPI’s email list to stay up to date on what the administration is actually doing—not just what they’re saying—and receive action alerts to make your voice heard. Additional resources can be found at the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities, the Food Research & Action Center, and No Kid Hungry.

Together, we can hold the MAHA Commission and the administration to their word.

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/07/15/op-ed-the-big-beautiful-bill-wont-make-america-healthy-again66076/feed/ 0 From Bees to Beer, Buckwheat Is a Climate-Solution Crop https://civileats.com/2025/07/08/from-bees-to-beer-buckwheat-is-a-climate-solution-crop/ https://civileats.com/2025/07/08/from-bees-to-beer-buckwheat-is-a-climate-solution-crop/#comments Tue, 08 Jul 2025 08:00:50 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=65717 “Bees love buckwheat,” says Keith Kisler, a farmer who co-owns Chimacum Valley Grainery, a mill, bakery, and brewery on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Kisler and his wife, Crystie, cultivate barley, quinoa, rye, spelt, and wheat on about 70 acres of organic farmland, but buckwheat has become one of his favorite crops. That’s because buckwheat—planted in late […]

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From a distance, fields of buckwheat may seem serene, with petite, fluffy white flowers and heart-shaped green leaves. But if you’re standing in one, you’ll hear the distinct buzzing of bees as they pollinate millions of flowers per acre.

“Bees love buckwheat,” says Keith Kisler, a farmer who co-owns Chimacum Valley Grainery, a mill, bakery, and brewery on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Kisler and his wife, Crystie, cultivate barley, quinoa, rye, spelt, and wheat on about 70 acres of organic farmland, but buckwheat has become one of his favorite crops.

Despite its name, buckwheat is not a type of wheat; it’s a gluten-free seed, rich in vitamins and minerals.

That’s because buckwheat—planted in late May and harvested in early October—is remarkably easy to grow. “In between, there’s really nothing done to that field,” Kisler says. “I don’t do any weed control, and we don’t water. It’s planted, it germinates, it grows, it flowers, it’s harvested.”

Buckwheat is also easy to mill into flour and adds a rich, earthy flavor to some of the Grainery’s products, like bread, beer, and pasta. By managing every step of the process, from cultivation to the finished product, Kisler has overcome buckwheat’s greatest challenge in the U.S.—a solid infrastructure that connects producers with consumers.

Buckwheat flour can be used in a range of recipes, including noodles, pictured here, as well as crêpes, blinis, and cookies. (Photo credit: Crystie Kisler, Chimacum Valley Grainery)

Buckwheat flour can be used in a range of recipes, including noodles, pictured here, as well as crêpes, blinis, and cookies. (Photo credit: Crystie Kisler, Chimacum Valley Grainery)

Buckwheat has a long bloom period, can build healthy soil, and is nutrient-dense, making it good not only for bees and farmers, but also planet and people. These multiple benefits are why Kisler and a team of scientists are working together to test new varieties of buckwheat and to build a local market for it.

Led by researchers at Washington State University (WSU) and supported by funding from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), they hope to increase organic production of this underutilized, low-input crop—one with the potential to address larger challenges like nutrition access and climate change.

A Versatile Seed

Despite its name, buckwheat is not a type of wheat. It is a seed rich in vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A, B, C, and E, as well as potassium and magnesium, which play an important role in a healthy human diet—and it is gluten free. The tough outer hulls are typically removed, and the hulled seeds, called groats, have a nutty taste and the al dente texture of farro. Buckwheat groats can also be milled into a flour for use in sweet and savory recipes, from brownies and cookies to breads and crackers.

Buckwheat originated in southwestern China, featuring in Asian cuisines for thousands of years before spreading to Eastern Europe, likely in the 15th century. Today, China is the world’s second largest producer of buckwheat after Russia. The grain arrived in North America during European colonization and was a favorite of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, due to its capacity to suppress weeds.

Its culinary uses, however, have yet to be fully explored in the U.S., where it is still typically treated as an export item or cover crop. About 27,000 acres of buckwheat were grown here in 2017, the most recent year that data on buckwheat plantings were available.

Washington is the nation’s second top producer of buckwheat after North Dakota, with approximately 6,000 to 8,000 acres, according to Kevin Murphy, a WSU professor of international seed and cropping systems and the director of Breadlab, WSU’s grain research center. Almost all of the seed grown in the Northwest state is exported to Japan for making soba noodles.

Kisler’s buckwheat, grown on 12 acres that produce 16,000 to 18,000 pounds of seed annually, remains in his regional food system. His brother, on the other hand, grows between 200 and 300 acres of buckwheat in eastern Washington, entirely for export to Japan.

“There’s a need for different scales of operations,” Kisler says. “For somebody like my brother to grow several hundred acres of buckwheat and for small production at a local level.” 

Buckwheat flowers develop abundantly about 30 days after seeding. In the center, an aerial view of a buckwheat field trial. (Photo courtesy of WSU)Buckwheat flowers develop abundantly about 30 days after seeding. At right, an aerial view of a buckwheat field trial. (Photo courtesy of WSU)

Buckwheat flowers develop abundantly about 30 days after seeding. At right, an aerial view of a buckwheat field trial. (Photo courtesy of WSU)

Kisler has worked with Breadlab since 2008, and the buckwheat in his fields are varieties they developed together. For years before this collaboration, Kisler used buckwheat as a cover crop, and he saw how it enhanced his soil.

“It helps break disease cycles,” Kisler says. “It grows really quickly, so it out-competes the weeds in a field. It sends down a fairly deep tap root, which loosens compacted soils. It does well even in marginal soils. I don’t ever need to water it, even in a dry season. And it’s planted later, so from a production perspective, it spreads out planting and harvesting so all that work doesn’t need to happen all at once.”

Buckwheat’s agricultural benefits extend beyond the lifespan of the plant. “When I follow it with a grain crop, that grain crop does better in that section of the field where there was buckwheat the previous year than next door where there was no buckwheat planted,” Kisler says.  

The Pancake Project

In 2021, WSU researchers began collaborating with local producers to assess the regional market for buckwheat and millet and build consumer demand for these crops, supported by a $350,000 Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Project (SARE) grant, funded by the USDA.

“I don’t do any weed control with buckwheat, and we don’t water. It’s planted, it germinates, it grows, it flowers, it’s harvested.”

They used the most promising buckwheat varieties from nearby farms to develop a pancake mix for Washington’s school lunch programs. Stephen Bramwell, Thurston County Extension director and WSU agriculture specialist, coordinated with nearly 300 school districts for their feedback. A critical factor, they found, was the ratio of buckwheat flour to whole wheat flour.

“After many rounds of taste tests at the Breadlab and schools, we’ve dialed it in to 50 percent buckwheat,” Bramwell says. “We tried to get it close to what people know, what wouldn’t be too different from other pancakes—fairly light, not too grainy, a little bit sweet.”

The pancakes’ appearance was particularly crucial. “The color—that’s a huge one for kids,” says Bramwell, noting that students prefer the lighter hue of pancakes made with refined wheat flour. “Buckwheat pancakes brown faster and can become really dark, so we’ve done trials to moderate the color.”

Washington State University Extension made the buckwheat pancake packets to pass out at the Thurston County Fair. At a booth equipped with a hand-crank mill, kids could grind buckwheat groats that were added to the bags of pancake mix they could take home. The booth was extremely popular, with some kids returning two or three times to use the mill and grind more buckwheat, according to WSU's Annie Salafsky. (Photo credit: Stephen Bramwell)

Buckwheat pancake-mix packets at the Thurston County Fair, created by WSU Extension. At the booth, kids could grind their own buckwheat flour for the packets using a hand-crank mill. The booth was extremely popular, with some kids returning two or three times to grind more buckwheat groats. (Photo credit: Stephen Bramwell)

To familiarize students with buckwheat, the team also organized hands-on lessons, including growing it in school gardens, harvesting and threshing it, using hand-crank mills to pulverize the seeds into flour, making pancakes, and taste testing batches made with different flour ratios.

“The best way to reach kids is not just when it shows up on the plate,” Bramwell says, “but when they’ve had a chance to get exposure to a new product by learning about it, as a plant, as a seed, and then as a food.”

‘More Bang for Your Buckwheat’

After the SARE grant ended in 2024, the WSU team received another USDA grant for a project they call More Bang for Your Buckwheat (MBYB). Their goal is to develop new buckwheat varieties based on traits that both farmers and consumers like and want. With these new varieties, the team plans to develop a diverse selection of “flavorful, affordable, and nutritious” buckwheat products and continue collaborations with 50 school districts in the region. 

“The name is sort of tongue-in-cheek,” explains Micaela Colley, WSU professor of participatory plant breeding. “Many farmers grow buckwheat knowing they won’t make any money off it, and they just till it in. We’re interested in all the values of buckwheat as a cover crop, but the idea is that you’re getting a food crop out of it, too.”

An array of foods made with buckwheat, including cookies and crackers, are showcased at the Breadlab's Buckwheat Festival. (Photo courtesy of WSU Breadlab)An array of foods made with buckwheat, including cookies and crackers, are showcased at the Breadlab's Buckwheat Festival. (Photo courtesy of WSU Breadlab)An array of foods made with buckwheat, including cookies and crackers, are showcased at the Breadlab's Buckwheat Festival. (Photo courtesy of WSU Breadlab)

An array of foods made with buckwheat, including cookies and crackers, at the Buckwheat Festival. (Photo courtesy of WSU Breadlab)

Recent federal funding cuts devastated some WSU research programs, such as the Soil to Society grant, which included buckwheat as a key crop to consider for increasing food security. The four-year, $3.3 million MBYB grant is still being funded through USDA, but may be indirectly impacted by a $1 billion federal funding cut to the Local Food for Schools Cooperative Agreement Program, which affects 850,000 students in Washington and may limit the ability of some school districts to buy nutritious, locally produced foods—like WSU’s buckwheat pancake mix.

The MBYB team also includes experts from across the country, with several in New York—another top U.S. producer of buckwheat and buckwheat products. Cornell University and the Glynwood Center for Regional Food are key for research and forming relationships with both farmers and food producers to develop products such as BAM, a buckwheat-based milk alternative.

The MBYB grant will also help fund the third annual Buckwheat Festival on August 8 at the Breadlab, in Burlington, Washington. The small event, which attracted about 50 visitors last year, will offer an evening tasting of buckwheat foods and drinks for $25 or a full day of activities for $125, including a field tour with plant breeders and cooking demonstrations with chefs.

Since 2018, the Breadlab has collaborated with chef Bonnie Morales of the Eastern European restaurant Kachka, in Portland, Oregon, to develop recipes for the restaurant and pop-up events, including the Buckwheat Festival.

“She makes my favorite comfort food,” Colley says, referring to Morales’ golubtsi, a Ukrainian dish of cabbage rolls stuffed with buckwheat. The seed is used throughout Kachka’s menu, including for custard and blini.

The Buckwheat Festival offers tastings of buckwheat foods and drinks, field tours with plant breeders, and cooking demonstrations with chefs. (Photo courtesy of WSU Breadlab)

California chef Sonoko Sakai has also participated in the festival and will be there again this year. “She did a demo and made soba noodles by hand,” Colley recalls. “One thing that stuck in my mind that she shared is that in Japan, master soba chefs will include on the menu the date that buckwheat was harvested and what farm it came from.”

Ultimately, the goal is for buckwheat to be enjoyed year-round, not only on the day of the festival. For this to happen, there’s still much work to be done, especially in local and regional infrastructure.

“We’re really good at growing large amounts of grain and putting them in silos and then shipping them off somewhere far away,” Murphy says. “But if we want to eat locally and grow these grains at a smaller scale, there are a lot of gaps between the farmers and food companies and schools. How do we work together to bridge these gaps and make regional grain economies and value chains more efficient?”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/07/08/from-bees-to-beer-buckwheat-is-a-climate-solution-crop/feed/ 1 Amid SNAP Debate, Are Lawmakers Ending Waste and Abuse—or Dismantling a Safety Net? https://civileats.com/2025/07/01/food-assistance-debate-are-lawmakers-ending-waste-or-dismantling-a-safety-net/ https://civileats.com/2025/07/01/food-assistance-debate-are-lawmakers-ending-waste-or-dismantling-a-safety-net/#respond Tue, 01 Jul 2025 08:00:09 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=65550 Near the loading dock, a shipment of kale awaits transport to refrigerated storage, the curly green leaves poking out of boxes from a nearby farm. More boxes of food, including brown rice, coconut milk, and Corn Flakes, are stacked on towering shelves. Some shelves, however, are notably empty. Due to funding cuts at the U.S. […]

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In Washington, D.C., a few miles north of Capitol Hill, where members of Congress are battling over federal food assistance, workers driving forklifts lean on their horns and whip around corners at the Capital Area Food Bank’s 100,000-square-foot warehouse.

Near the loading dock, a shipment of kale awaits transport to refrigerated storage, the curly green leaves poking out of boxes from a nearby farm. More boxes of food, including brown rice, coconut milk, and Corn Flakes, are stacked on towering shelves.

Some shelves, however, are notably empty.

Due to funding cuts at the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) over the last several months, the food bank lost more than 25 tractor-trailer loads of food between April and June and an expected $2 million that would have been used to purchase local produce next year. As other food banks across the country have reported, Capital Area’s President and CEO Radha Muthiah said that demand here is way up. Now, her team is preparing for another rush.

“We know that with any reduction in SNAP [the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program], people are going to look to try and make that [food] up in other ways, and certainly looking to us and our network will be one of those ways,” she said.

More than 40 million Americans rely on SNAP for food aid. But Republicans are counting on major changes to the program to help fund tax cuts in their “One Big, Beautiful Bill,” which they hope to have to President Donald Trump by July 4. In 2023, SNAP cost $113 billion.

Their plans would fundamentally alter how SNAP works, decreasing federal spending on the program by about $200 billion over 10 years. The bill is not yet final, but the Senate is poised to soon pass it, sending it back to the House (where it could face other obstacles) before it heads toward Trump’s desk later this week. If the plans remain intact and the bill becomes law, many fewer Americans—possibly millions fewer—will receive benefits.

An employee of the Capital Area Food Bank takes part in a “family market” at a local school near Washington, DC. (Photo: Maansi Srivastava for the Capital Area Food Bank)

An employee of the Capital Area Food Bank takes part in a “family market” at a nearby school. (Photo credit: Maansi Srivastava for the Capital Area Food Bank)

House and Senate Agriculture leaders G.T. Thompson (R-Pennsylvania) and John Boozman (R-Arkansas), who worked on the plans, have both said they support SNAP and are committed to ensuring that hungry people can access food. But Republican leaders also claim the program is rife with waste, fraud, and abuse.

They want to shift the cost to states, with the amount based on how many errors the states are making in administering the program. They say this will incentivize states to make fewer mistakes with taxpayer funds. They also say the Republican plan to subject more SNAP recipients to work requirements will move them off benefits faster.

But many experts and those who work within the program say the changes will do the opposite, adding to state agency workloads and creating more opportunities for the wasteful inefficiencies and errors Republicans say they want to reduce.

Opponents of the Republican plan cite evidence showing that work requirements don’t encourage more work. Instead, they can make it harder for those who need help to get it, pushing them further into a hole and increasing their dependence on food aid.

At a Capitol Hill forum hosted by Senate Democrats in June, Barbara Guinn, the commissioner of the New York State office that administers SNAP, said the plans would not reduce waste, fraud, or abuse. “Instead,” she said, “these proposals threaten an effective and efficient program which research consistently and clearly shows has very low rates of recipient fraud, reduces hunger, supports work, and stimulates the economy.”

Fraud vs. Error Rates

The Republican proposal to shift costs to states relies heavily on one metric: SNAP error rates, which are a measure of under- or overpayments made to people receiving benefits.

According to the plan, states with higher error rates—as determined by USDA oversight—would have to take on the responsibility of paying a larger proportion of SNAP benefits, which historically have been paid by the federal government.

Last year, when the USDA’s annual report showed error rates were higher than typical, Boozman signaled the Agriculture Committees in Congress were paying attention. “While SNAP is a critical nutrition program for households in need, any level of erroneous payments is a misuse of taxpayer dollars,” he said in a statement. “House and Senate Republicans stand ready to . . . hold states accountable for exploiting the generosity of the American taxpayer.”

But Republicans have also spread misinformation: At a House hearing in early June, for example, Agriculture Secretary Brooke Rollins appeared to conflate error rates with fraud.

In response to a question about error rates, she said she thought they were likely even higher than the data showed. “That is why these efforts are so important. We just have had, I think, three stings in just the last couple of weeks.”

Rollins was likely referring to recent law enforcement actions where the USDA targeted individuals stealing benefits from SNAP participants and, in one case, installing fraudulent benefit terminals.

But these stings target fraud, something entirely separate from error rates.

Fraud in the program is typically the result of “skimming,” when criminals steal benefits from the debit-like cards participants receive. In the 2024 fiscal year, states reported about $190 million in stolen benefits. None of the changes Republicans have proposed target this kind of fraud (although the USDA is cracking down on it).

Error rates, on the other hand, measure what are essentially clerical and reporting errors.

“Error rates are reflective of a very, very rigorous quality control process that is one of the most—if not the most—robust of any federal program,” said Katie Bergh, a senior policy analyst working on food assistance at the Center for Budget and Policy Priorities (CBPP).

Most errors are made by employees in state agencies. Others may reflect an individual who didn’t realize they had to report a change in a work situation. Historically, error rates have been low, because states have multiple incentives to keep them that way.

If their rate is over 6 percent, Bergh explained, states have to create a “corrective action plan” with the USDA. If that doesn’t fix the situation after two years, they get fined, and the funds go back to the feds. In 2023, for example, Pennsylvania had to pay almost $40 million. “If a state’s error rate creeps up, what we see is they typically are successful in bringing it back down within a few years,” she said.

That shifted during the pandemic, as a spike in people needing food assistance flooded agencies that had lost employees and struggled to set up remote work systems.

As a result, the USDA allowed states some flexibility in issuing benefits. When the agency measured error rates in 2022 and 2023, they had increased significantly. As Senators pushed toward the final bill passage, the USDA released the 2024 numbers, showing error rates are still elevated but have decreased compared to the previous two years.

In 2022, meanwhile, the USDA made a change to how it counts errors, creating more potential confusion. In the past, when its reviewers found an error on a required form, such as a missing signature, they would follow up with a family to determine if they were in fact eligible before counting it as an error. Now, without followup, they count it as an overpayment, skewing the data.

“Oftentimes, people will imply that the entire error rate represents taxpayer dollars that are going to people who are ineligible, and that’s incorrect,” Bergh said. “It includes both over and underpayments, and most overpayments go to people who actually are eligible. They’re just receiving the wrong amount.”

Finally, the error rate does not take into account state efforts to recoup overpayments, which they are required to do by reducing a participant’s future payments. In the 2023 fiscal year, the last year data was available, states were able to collect about $389 million in overpayments, although that number was tiny compared to the estimated $10.5 billion in overpayments.

“If you look at what the Department of Agriculture recommends for improving program integrity and reducing error rates—those are all things that federal resources would be cut for in both the House and the Senate bill.”

The Republican plan would penalize states with the highest error rates by forcing them to take on a significant portion of the costs of benefits. But at a press conference last week, governors of four states, all Democrats, said their states won’t be able to afford it and will be forced to either cut food aid or cut other services.

“The fact is, in our state government, we simply cannot shoulder the extra $50 to $80 million burden over the next decade without sacrificing serious investments in education, in healthcare, and public safety,” said Delaware Governor Matt Meyer. “That’s the harsh reality.”

In all states, the bill would also cut in half the administrative costs the federal government pays for, shifting another $25 billion onto states. That move would cost Massachusetts an estimated $15 million per year, Governor Laura Kelley said.

Bergh said cutting administrative funding could potentially lead to even more errors.

“The things that states fund using those administrative resources are all of the things that they do to reduce errors,” Bergh said. “If you look at what the Department of Agriculture recommends for improving program integrity and reducing error rates, it’s things like making sure you have enough staff so that workers have manageable workloads, staff training, investing in technology upgrades, investing in data analysis, so you can identify the root causes of your most common errors. Those are all things that federal resources would be cut for in both the House and the Senate bill.”

At the Capital Area Food Bank, staff worry that supplies of canned goods will not meet an influx of need over the summer. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

Impacts of Expanding Work Requirements

States will also be burdened with a heavier workload from the other piece of the Republican plan: extending work requirements for additional groups of people, such as parents with children between 14 and 18 years old. (Currently, parents with children under 18 are exempt.)

Under the House version of the bill, for example, CBPP estimated that about 6 million more people in a typical month would be subject to work requirements. (That number will be lower in the current Senate version.) “That means that states would need to be screening those 6 million more people for exemptions,” Bergh said. “It means tracking compliance: Making sure people are working enough hours and cutting them off if they have reached their three months and are not complying with the work requirement. So that’s a ton of additional work.”

In her opening testimony during a House Agriculture Committee hearing in April, Diane Whitmore Schanzenbach, a Northwestern University economist who has been studying SNAP for decades, included a table of new studies and survey data on the impacts of work requirements.

“These new studies have found that SNAP work requirements have no positive impact on work-related outcomes, as measured by employment, earnings, or hours worked,” she said. “On the other hand, they substantially reduce the likelihood that an individual receives SNAP.”

Angela Rachidi, a senior fellow at the conservative American Enterprise Institute, presented the opposite argument, calling stronger or expanded work requirements a key means to improving SNAP. However, in her testimony, she said that when it comes to the requirements, “some studies find positive effects on employment while others find negative or null effects.”

“These new studies have found that SNAP work requirements have no positive impact on work-related outcomes. On the other hand, they substantially reduce the likelihood that an individual receives SNAP.”

At the Senate forum in June, witness Jade Johnson described a situation in which SNAP benefits supported her path toward more secure employment. Johnson said she works two jobs—at a church and as a home health aide—while attending college classes part-time to become a dialysis technician.

Her hours, especially as a home health aide, are often unpredictable, she said, and the fluctuations could mean she wouldn’t meet new work requirements in a given week. For her, SNAP benefits were a source of stability as she focused on finishing school, after which she’d have access to higher wages.

“If my SNAP benefits were cut, I wouldn’t be able to get ahead or even maintain,” she said. “It would keep me stuck in a cycle where I’m always scrambling to make ends meet and never able to focus on building a better future. SNAP is one of the only things keeping me from falling behind.”

The Capital Area Food Bank’s supplies include healthy staples like brown rice (left) and leafy greens (right). Over the past two years, the food bank purchased more of the greens directly from local farms thanks to expanded federal grant funding that has now ended. (Photo credit: Lisa Held)

‘We Cannot Fill That Gap’

At the Capital Area Food Bank, Muthiah estimates about half of the region’s SNAP recipients also access food bank resources. And the food bank’s annual surveys consistently find that most people looking for help are working. “In fact, they’re working more than one job,” she said. “It’s just that those jobs are at a minimum-wage level, so it’s not enough to be able to cover the cost of living in our area.”

Muthiah worries that kicking new groups of people off the rolls through work requirements will make them more reliant on aid in the future.

“You’re having them slide back, as opposed to really moving forward,” she said, because if the benefits are gone, their attention will shift to finding the next meal.

As the bill moves forward, Muthiah said one analysis estimates that the new work requirements could push 74,000 people off SNAP in the area the Capital Area Food Bank covers—and that many of those people would then turn to the Food Bank, some for the first time.

At the same time, their region has been hit hard by the downsizing of the federal government; this spring, the food bank launched pop-up food distributions to serve former federal workers and others who Muthiah describes as “downstream” of the impacts.

For example, at the pop-up the weekend before, she met a nanny whose hours had been cut because her employer lost her government job. She met a senior citizen who relied on her son for extra income but felt like she didn’t want to burden him now that he had lost his job at the Internal Revenue Service.

With all of these things happening at once, she says, Capital Area Food Bank’s current supply of canned tomatoes and fresh pineapples won’t be enough to meet the increased need, no matter how quickly their staff drive the forklifts.

If millions of people lose SNAP benefits, Muthiah said, “One thing that we have to be really clear about is that we cannot fill that gap. We just can’t do it.”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/07/01/food-assistance-debate-are-lawmakers-ending-waste-or-dismantling-a-safety-net/feed/ 0 Can This Baltimore Academy Continue to Train Urban Farmers? https://civileats.com/2025/06/30/can-this-baltimore-academy-continue-to-train-urban-farmers/ https://civileats.com/2025/06/30/can-this-baltimore-academy-continue-to-train-urban-farmers/#respond Mon, 30 Jun 2025 08:00:03 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=65031 A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox. This is the Black Butterfly Teaching Farm, run by the Farm Alliance of Baltimore (FAB), a membership organization of urban farmers, neighborhood growers, and those interested in learning more about […]

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A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox.

In southern Baltimore, not far from the sewage treatment plant of Wagner’s Point and massive coal mounds of Curtis Bay, lies a small farm of green grass, rustling trees, and rows of radishes, arugula, peppers, and more. On a cool afternoon in late May, groups of children and their parents pass by, cutting through a dirt path on their way to some other part of this historically industrial city. As they come and go, a small crew of farmers diligently tends to the crops and land.

This is the Black Butterfly Teaching Farm, run by the Farm Alliance of Baltimore (FAB), a membership organization of urban farmers, neighborhood growers, and those interested in learning more about both. The farm was designed to turn food-curious people into urban farmers, especially those who live or work in the “Black Butterfly”—the regions of the city to the east and west of the center, shaped like a pair of butterfly wings, where the city’s majority Black population lives.

“The folks that tore it apart have no intention of fixing it.”

These neighborhoods continue to grapple with a legacy of redlining, with impacts that persist today—from a scarcity of grocery stores to a lack of tree cover (and resulting “heat island” effect) to lower life expectancy in general, often due to environmental pollutants.

Urban farms, though, represent a tangible way for people to have “a sense of control and autonomy” over their health and environment, says Hannah Quigley, a policy specialist with the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC). By enriching the environment and helping build a climate-resilient food system with economic potential, urban agriculture can unlock a form of empowerment for disadvantaged communities.

“It has real big community effects,” Quigley adds. “It’s not just helping one household in a lot of these settings. It’s helping hundreds of individuals in these neighborhood settings.”

Since 2021, the FAB has operated the Black Butterfly Urban Farmer Academy, which launched the teaching farm later that year and has graduated two groups of trainees. But this year, the program won’t be offered, as it takes a step back to finish several construction projects on the farm and to adjust to funding cuts by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA).

(Photo credit: Sam Delgado)

“I’m really looking forward to the full vision coming to fruition,” says Denzel Mitchell, FAB’s executive director and a former urban farmer himself, about the construction. He says they’re aiming to set up fencing, a greenhouse, an outdoor kitchen, a storage barn, and additional amenities for the community by the end of the year.

The Trump administration has cut many farming initiatives, including those addressing climate change and environmental injustice. That leaves programs like Black Butterfly—which aim to instill sustainable agriculture knowledge in residents who have long been blocked from land access—in limbo. Mitchell is skeptical that the funding challenges will be fixed any time soon.

“The folks that tore it apart,” he says, “have no intention of fixing it.”

Sustainable Farming in a Polluted Community

For years, the FAB had been having conversations about the need to offer people pathways to becoming urban farmers, says Mitchell, who drives an electric Ford truck to and from the farm. In 2017, the organization ran a feasibility study to understand exactly what the membership wanted. The response was “an opportunity to train,” Mitchell says. “That was the seed, if you will—no pun intended—of the training academy.”

There are other programs around Maryland that offer farm training. Mitchell himself trained with Future Harvest, which runs a year-long program for beginner farmers in the Chesapeake Bay region. But the city of Baltimore lacked an accessible, urban-scale training program.

People here needed something that was “a little bit beyond backyard growing,” and geared toward residents who wanted to develop a business, Mitchell says. “One of the things that we certainly understand as Black and Brown working-class folks is that you got to hustle. You got to have some little side gig.”

That entrepreneurial-environmental mindset has been a key part of the Black Butterfly Urban Farmer Academy’s framework. Its training is intended to help people feed their communities and grow potential businesses, while also learning how to sustainably steward the land.

Done properly, urban agriculture can reduce the carbon footprint of food and can help lower the heat island effect that many major cities face (while also benefiting the social, mental, and physical well-being of urban farmers and gardeners).

“The customers are really excited that we grow food in Baltimore City. They’re excited that these farms are right in their neighborhoods.”

Baltimore is no stranger to climate and environmental hazards, and this is especially true for communities living in the Black Butterfly. The teaching farm, whose nearly 7 acres of land were provided by the city’s Department of Planning, sits just a mile away from Curtis Bay, a neighborhood that has been plagued by pollution from coal dust. Black Baltimorians are also overwhelmingly worried about climate change and its harms, too.

As someone with decades of food and farming experience, Mitchell is well aware of how the changing climate has affected farming. At the same time, he expressed frustration that well-known “climate-smart” techniques, such as cover crops, are sometimes incentivized for industrial farms while smaller farms receive less support. These practices, Mitchell says, should be expected, rather than accepted.

Growing Urban Farmers

Past training programs of the Black Butterfly Urban Farmer Academy ran for nine months and began with in-person classes on foundational topics for a beginner farmer. Mitchell and other teachers guided participants through the basics, like crop selection, pest management, post-harvest handling, safety, marketing, and more.

After 12 weeks of classes, participants attended FAB’s field days, which connected them with local farms and food organizations to gain practical experience. Past field days included instruction on subjects like composting, beekeeping, and growing herbs. Students also gained hands-on experience from shifts at the teaching farm and other local farms.

Mitchell in the fields at Black Butterfly Teaching Farm. (Photo credit: Sam Delgado)

Past trainees were also each awarded a $2,000 stipend and equipped with books to further add to their understanding of the food system and farming strategies, including Farming While Black by Leah Penniman, The Market Gardener by Jean-Martin Fortier, and The Organic Farmer’s Business Handbook by Richard Wiswall.

Aria Eghbal was looking for a career change when she discovered the Black Butterfly Urban Farmer Academy. She was working as a medical assistant during the first year of the COVID-19 pandemic and was feeling burnt out and frustrated by the healthcare system. She applied to the program and became one of 10 people accepted into the first training program—many of whom were also at a career crossroads, she says.

The training program marked the beginning of Eghbal’s career in the food system: as a farmer, as a cook, and, since last December, as FAB’s lead staffer at farmers’ markets. “The customers are really excited that we grow food in Baltimore City,” she says. “They’re excited that these farms are right in their neighborhoods.”

Becoming part of Baltimore’s urban farming community was one of the greatest benefits of the academy, she adds. “We really do care about each other and want to see each other thrive and succeed, through this process of growing food and flowers and processing honey and all the different things that we do.”

The Challenge Ahead

The Black Butterfly Urban Farmer Academy has seen nearly 20 people graduate from its program. But the USDA funding cuts, particularly to initiatives for diversity, equity, and inclusion, have also eliminated funding prospects. To operate services like the academy and an upcoming incubator program that Mitchell calls “the launching pad for the next generation of diversified family farmers,” he projects it will cost roughly $300,000. “Fundraising has been incredibly difficult this year,” he says.

Crops in the ground at the teaching farm. (Photo credit: Sam Delgado)

Added to the difficulty is a political environment where some organizations are hiding their missions. One funder recently asked Mitchell if he was “woke but cloaked”—whether, in other words, the FAB would be hiding language around equity from its website and other materials, to avoid targeting from the Trump administration. “How am I supposed to do that?” Mitchell asked, annoyed, recalling the conversation. “I’m a Black man. My politics are literally on my face.”

Despite all this, Mitchell still has plans for the land where the teaching farm is located, including a pavilion, a playground, and community and commercial orchards. “This was just us growing food and then trying to teach people how to do it,” Mitchell says. “And doing it in a way that is environmentally beneficial. So now, we got to figure out just how to do that on our own.”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/06/30/can-this-baltimore-academy-continue-to-train-urban-farmers/feed/ 0 This Man Is Feeding California’s Incarcerated Firefighters https://civileats.com/2025/06/10/this-man-is-feeding-californias-incarcerated-firefighters/ Tue, 10 Jun 2025 08:00:44 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=65102 Incarcerated individuals have been on the fire lines in the Golden State since 1915, but their numbers have increased in recent years as wildfires have intensified. The Anti-Recidivism Coalition (ARC), a Los Angeles-based organization working toward criminal justice reform, supports those firefighters with quality food unavailable in prison, serving more than 800 during the recent […]

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In January, as hurricane-force winds caused wildfires to raze entire neighborhoods in Los Angeles County, more than 7,500 firefighters risked their lives to save people, pets, homes, and communities. Among them were an estimated 1,100 inmates from the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation. This month, as California’s traditional fire season commences with the dry, hot summer, many of those individuals will be back.

Incarcerated individuals have been on the fire lines in the Golden State since 1915, but their numbers have increased in recent years as wildfires have intensified. The Anti-Recidivism Coalition (ARC), a Los Angeles-based organization working toward criminal justice reform, supports those firefighters with quality food unavailable in prison, serving more than 800 during the recent wildfires.

“The goal was to give them different meals based on what they would ask for but also give them the opportunity to experience different kinds of cooking.”

ARC’s executive director, Sam Lewis, himself formerly incarcerated, worked as a butcher in the prison kitchen while serving a 24-year sentence. Now, he and formerly incarcerated prison chefs active in ARC are advocating for incarcerated firefighters—also known as hand crews—and sharing with them a wide range of foods at the fire camps.

Thanks to donations from the public, local restaurants, and food companies, the firefighters battling the L.A. fires were provided pulled pork sandwiches, brisket sandwiches, cheeseburgers, and vegetables. This is a noted departure from the substandard meals people in prison typically receive, meals that often lead to chronic health problems.

ARC will be supporting incarcerated firefighters again this fire season, throughout the state, and Lewis will be there alongside, cooking and putting donations to good use. ARC would also like to see incarcerated firefighters receive significantly higher wages, supporting pending legislation that would allow them to earn a starting hourly pay of $7.25 during active fires and built-in annual wage increases.

These firefighters work long hours, comparable to conventional firefighters, and are vulnerable to suffering serious injuries. Yet most earn meager wages, starting as low as $5.80 per day. The least skilled of the incarcerated firefighters earn about $30 a day for completing 24-hour shifts during active emergencies, a sum critics say is far too little for the risks they take.

Sam Lewis headshot

Sam Lewis, ARC’s executive director. (Photo courtesy of ARC)

Lewis spoke to Civil Eats about why his organization makes food a priority for these firefighters, and how improving their pay could transform their lives.

Why was it important to ensure that the hand crews had a wide range of foods during the fires earlier this year?

The public wanted to know how they could say thank you to these incarcerated individuals that were putting their lives on the line to save people’s property. So we came up with the idea, with the permission of the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation, that we could provide them with different meals across the board. The goal was to give them different meals based on what they would ask for but also give them the opportunity to experience different kinds of cooking.

One chef who prepared meals for the firefighters, Jeff Henderson, has an interesting backstory, one that gives him a personal connection to them. Can you say more about him? 

Yes, Chef Jeff was the only formerly incarcerated chef that I knew of who came and cooked. He purchases the food, cooks it, and then after the meal is cooked, we reimburse him for the cost. He cooked what he calls “correctional chicken” [the fried chicken he learned to make in prison with all-purpose flour and seasonings] and hot link sandwiches with cheese, and then they had a dessert. The dessert was sent by the cookie company Crumbl.

Chef Jeff is self-taught. Cooking was his dream. He came home a long time ago and started his program [Chef Jeff Project]. He’s written a number of books. His food is incredible. He trains a lot of the kids who work in some of the hotels in Las Vegas, where he’s based. So, if you go to those hotels and you have amazing food there, a lot of times that’s the touch of Chef Jeff.

Although you’re not a chef, food service was one of your responsibilities when you were incarcerated. What was it like to be a butcher in prison?

When I was at Soledad [State Prison], I was the lead butcher for about two years. We prepped meals for about 6,000 people, so anything that had to do with meats, any dairy products, like cheese, was our responsibility. We prepped everything—roast beef, spaghetti and meatballs, hamburgers, chicken. It was our job to make sure that it was prepped, properly stored, and then sent out to the main line for people to eat.

Do you feel like food has improved in prisons or do you think there’s still a long way to go?

So, here’s the thing: It depends on the cook. We had a guy over the entire kitchen who was incredible. This guy would go out and sample food and bring it back. He was from Louisiana, so he was serious about what he would purchase. Each institution gets a budget, so his job was to find the food and spend his budget wisely. He really worked hard to make sure that we had great fresh fruit, and he wouldn’t get the processed turkey because his attitude was like, “If I’m not going to eat it, I’m not going to serve it to the people I’m feeding.” He would also make sure you had enough vegetables on your tray.

There has been some serious effort by the Department of Corrections to move to a healthier diet, because on the back end of having people incarcerated, the cost goes up as their health goes down. But if you feed people properly, their health can be maintained at a higher level, which causes the cost on the back end of incarceration to go down.

ARC supported incarcerated firefighters in January by making sure they had access to foods they wouldn’t normally eat and that they were properly hydrated while risking their lives. And you were inundated with donations of sports drinks for the firefighters?

There were just pallet loads of those coming in. We even had some of our ARC members transport some of those drinks to different base camps. There was so much that sometimes, it was like, “Could you stop donating?” [Laughter] It was a beautiful thing because it just shows the unity of Los Angeles.

“We should always believe in the human spirit and resiliency and understand that our job as a society is to help people become the best version of themselves, even when they’ve made bad choices and possibly have hurt people.”

Beyond food, ARC is seeking donations to help improve the lives of incarcerated firefighters overall once they leave prison. Can you describe the needs these funds will meet?

The donations are for scholarships for [incarcerated] firefighters coming home who want to continue to be firefighters. When a person comes home from incarceration and they go into a training center and become a certified firefighter, then they’re deployed. They can be deployed anywhere in the state, and they have to cover the cost of living, of moving. They have to get an apartment, first and last month’s rent, so that’s one thing that the scholarships will cover.

ARC is also advocating for recently introduced legislation to give incarcerated firefighters higher wages. If this bill passes, how might it change their lives?

The legislation, Assembly Bill 247, was introduced by Assemblymember Isaac Bryan. The money would go on the [prisoners’] books, so they could do what they would like to with it. In some instances, [prisoners] may have restitution to pay, so the state would take 55 percent of that. If they don’t have restitution, or if the restitution has been paid, then they can use it for the commissary. They could just save the money until they’re released also. Walking out of prison, normally, you have $200 in gate money. Ask yourself, how far does that take you, especially in today’s economy?

What is your response to members of the public who are concerned that incarcerated firefighters are being exploited?

The firefighter program is a voluntary program. You have to apply to go to the fire camps, and there’s a whole process that you have to go through, including medical clearance, in order to be accepted. The CDCR health care staff have to clear you—physically and mentally. Because if you think about it, it’s hard work.

Incarcerated firefighters also have to be what you call minimum custody status, which is the lowest classification of security. They have to have eight years or less on their sentence. Disqualifying things that can stop them from going to fire camp are convictions like sex offenses, arson, or [prison] escapes. Other things that are disqualifying are active warrants, medical issues, or high-notoriety cases.

If a person goes to a fire camp, it’s voluntary. If they get there and don’t want to continue, they don’t have to. They can go back without being written up. One of my young people that I mentored decided it wasn’t something that he wanted to do, and so he returned to the facility.

How long have you all been supporting incarcerated firefighters?

We helped establish the Ventura Training Center (VTC) in 2018. That’s the program where people come out of incarceration, go through the training, and become certified firefighters. With the passage of additional legislation after the implementation of VTC, people who are coming home now [after having trained to fight fires] can also get their record expunged so they can get their EMT license, which allows them to become municipal firefighters if they can find a job. We have three or four [ARC alums] who are working [as EMTs] in Orange County, and the rest work for CAL FIRE [wilderness fire protection].

Are you hopeful that public perception of the incarcerated community will change in the wake of the wildfires?

I would hope that this tragic event and the attention that’s being given to our incarcerated hand crews that support firefighters help the entire public understand that people change, that redemption is possible. We should always believe in the human spirit and resiliency and understand that our job as a society is to help people become the best version of themselves, even when they’ve made bad choices and possibly have hurt people. That does not necessarily make them bad people. That makes them people that have done bad things that can be corrected.

This interview was lightly edited for length and clarity.

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]]> Heart of Dinner Delivers Hope to Asian Seniors, and a Boost to Asian Businesses, Too https://civileats.com/2025/06/09/heart-of-dinner-delivers-hope-to-asian-seniors-and-a-boost-to-asian-businesses-too/ Mon, 09 Jun 2025 08:00:05 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=65047 Tsai, who grew up in a restaurant family and is herself a restaurateur and entrepreneur, handled most of the kitchen duties, while Chang, an actor best known for her portrayal of Nelly Yuki on the hit show Gossip Girl, would entertain guests in the dining room. As a young couple, the two found comfort in […]

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Ten years ago, Yin Chang and Moonlynn Tsai hosted a supper club in their modest Los Angeles apartment. A dozen or so people—mostly friends of friends in the Asian community—would crowd around a custom-built 7-foot-long communal table and feast on dishes like char siu ribs marinated with whiskey or share elaborate hot-pot meals with greenmarket vegetables.

Tsai, who grew up in a restaurant family and is herself a restaurateur and entrepreneur, handled most of the kitchen duties, while Chang, an actor best known for her portrayal of Nelly Yuki on the hit show Gossip Girl, would entertain guests in the dining room.

As a young couple, the two found comfort in bringing together strangers over a home-cooked meal—a communal experience they felt was lacking in their lives at the time.

“Elders like us, if we have any pain or don’t feel very well that day, we cannot go out to get anything.”

“Dinners can bring together people of all cultures and also [present] an opportunity to talk about who we are as people, our heritage, and our love stories,” Chang says. “When we were deciding on a name for our supper club, we were trying to figure out what was at the heart of dinner, and the name ‘Heart of Dinner’ became so fitting.”

Admission to these dinners was free, but guests were invited to leave donations in a large urn on the table, with proceeds going to No Kid Hungry, a child hunger campaign that supports school and community meal programs.

Heart of Dinner’s core mission took a dramatic turn during the pandemic. Chang and Tsai, who moved to New York City in 2018 to pursue career opportunities, were deeply troubled by the wave of Asian hate crimes and xenophobia that swept across the city in March 2020. After a period of feeling helpless, they sprang into action to mobilize support for the elderly Asian community. They partnered with local senior centers to hand-deliver bags of culturally appropriate groceries and ready-to-eat meals, prepared in their tiny home kitchen, to Asian elders isolated by the mandated quarantines. Within months, the couple were regularly delivering over 1,200 meals per week across New York City.

As threats to the Asian community lingered, Chang and Tsai formally established Heart of Dinner as a nonprofit in late 2020, garnering support from private donors; local, mostly Asian-owned businesses; corporate sponsorships; and foundation grants. Today, the organization continues to deliver over 700 care packages every week filled with fresh produce and hot meals to Asian seniors across four of New York City’s five boroughs. Later this year they plan to expand to Staten Island, with fundraising efforts already underway.

In April, Heart of Dinner celebrated its five-year anniversary. While volunteers from across New York City celebrated the milestone, Chang and Tsai were in Los Angeles, where they’ve lived intermittently since January, coordinating relief efforts for Asian seniors displaced by the catastrophic wildfires there (see sidebar below). They believe their experience in New York over the past five years helped them more quickly mobilize recovery efforts there.

Heart of Dinner volunteers at the Lower East Side site organize deliveries for the day. (Photo credit: Adam Reiner)

Heart of Dinner volunteers at the Lower East Side site organize deliveries for the day. (Photo credit: Adam Reiner)

“We did not see this coming,” Chang says, “but if anything, it was kismet, and poetic in [the] way that it reminded us of the heart of the mission and how necessary this work is, anywhere in the country.”

Delivering Hope to Harlem

On a frigid Wednesday afternoon in February, about a dozen volunteers met at La Marqueta, a Latin food hall in East Harlem, to pack 75 gift bags with groceries like firm tofu, Japanese sweet potatoes, bok choy, and bananas, along with plastic to-go containers filled with stir-fried pork, purple eggplant, and white rice prepared by a partner restaurant in Chinatown. All meals included in Heart of Dinner care packages come from local Asian-owned restaurants.

Each bag, destined for Asian seniors living in nearby public housing, was festooned with colorful, uplifting artwork by volunteers from across the city: drawings and paintings of birds, lanterns, fruit, flowers, and other Asian-themed imagery. “Heart of Dinner” was written in Mandarin characters on the bags, with a personalized note stapled beneath the handle.

The notes included simple wishes for health and prosperity written in each recipient’s native language—in many cases, messages one would expect a grandparent to give, not receive: “Make sure you drink water” or “Please eat well today.” Two of the bags had notes written in Thai; other Heart of Dinner sites also prepare notes in Cantonese, Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese, and Tagalog.

The volunteers at the East Harlem site came from all walks of life: college students, bartenders, musicians, physician assistants, and retirees. After loading the care packages into large stroller wagons, the team divided into small groups, traversing the neighborhood’s intricate web of public housing developments by foot.

The volunteers warmly greeted each elder at the door, wearing masks as a precautionary measure, and presented the bags respectfully with two hands. They inquired with genuine concern about each person’s health, as a grandchild would. Most conversations were brief but cordial and ended with gentle bows and exchanges of “xiè xie” (“thank you” in Mandarin) with the many Chinese recipients who live in the area.

East Harlem, which spans from 103rd to 125th street on the east side of northern Manhattan, is a predominantly Latinx neighborhood. But according to the most recent Census Bureau data, Asians now comprise about 9.6 percent of its population, up from only 5.5 percent in 2010.

Due to gentrification, many Asian seniors in New York City are being displaced from Chinatown, forcing them to relocate to neighborhoods like Harlem in search of more affordable housing. The Heart of Dinner founders stressed that this can be particularly isolating for many elders, because these neighborhoods often don’t have familiar Asian businesses that cater to their needs.

An elder in Brooklyn receives her weekly Heart of Dinner delivery. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

An elder in Brooklyn receives her weekly Heart of Dinner delivery. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

In one of the high-rise public housing developments along the end of the route, a soft-spoken 73-year-old woman who introduced herself as Mrs. Xie extolled the virtues of Heart of Dinner through a translator. “I feel so thankful from the bottom of my heart,” she said of the weekly deliveries she’d been receiving for months. “Elders like us, if we have any pain or don’t feel very well that day, we cannot go out to get anything.”

Another elderly woman, whose husband is in his 90s, joked, “even our children don’t go above and beyond like Heart of Dinner does for us every week.”

Creating a Virtuous Circle

Although Heart of Dinner’s primary mission is to advocate for the Asian elder community, it also provides vital support for many Asian-owned businesses by partnering with local restaurants, wholesale grocers, and organic farmers. “We intentionally purchase from Asian-owned businesses wherever possible, which also helps to build economic resilience in the communities we serve,” Chang says.

In 2023, they began partnering with Choy Commons, an organic farm collective in the Catskills, to supply their East Harlem site with Asian heritage crops such as baby Shanghai bok choy and hakurei turnips.

“The reality of many Asian seniors living in food insecurity is painful,” says Nicole Yeo-Solano, co-founder of Choy Commons, “especially because so many of us were raised by our grandparents, and we know that many of their journeys have not been easy.”

Heart of Dinner also works with Asian-owned restaurants and bakeries across New York City like Saigon Social and Partybus Bakeshop on the Lower East Side, which provide hearty soups and scallion buns, respectively, for their weekly deliveries. They also purchase freshly made soy milk from Fong On, New York City’s oldest tofu shop, which opened in Chinatown in 1933.

Pei Wei, the co-owner of Zaab Zaab, a Thai restaurant in Williamsburg, has supported Heart of Dinner since the pandemic, and her kitchen staff continues to supply over 100 hot meals every week for the Brooklyn delivery site.

“I tell the chef to cook the vegetables a little longer so it’s softer for people who have sensitive teeth,” Wei says, “or to chop the meat into smaller pieces so it’s easier to digest.” Her restaurant also frequently hosts bag decorating sessions, where young children like Wei’s 10-year-old daughter are invited to participate.

“We’re very proud that every single meal we serve with our partners is paid for by Heart of Dinner, at least what the restaurant would be charging,” Tsai says. “So, they’re able to partake in community giving while also doing something that helps sustain their business.”

Finding Connection Through Community

For many volunteers, working with Heart of Dinner has helped foster a deeper connection to the Asian community and their own Asian identities. Professional illustrator Nancy Pappas began volunteering and helping decorate bags and notecards in 2020, after feeling horrified by violence against the Asian American and Pacific Islander community in New York City during the pandemic.

Brightly decorated Heart of Dinner bags are filled with fresh produce and prepared meals. (Photo credit: Heart of Dinner)

Brightly decorated Heart of Dinner bags are filled with fresh produce and prepared meals. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

Pappas is an adoptee who was born in Korea and raised by a white family in Kansas City, Missouri. Having struggled with her own Asian identity growing up, she credits Heart of Dinner with helping further her journey of self-discovery. Her experiences with the nonprofit even encouraged her to seek out her Korean birth mother, whom she met in person in 2019, and spend extended time living in Asia.

“To be able to give back to the community—even though as an adoptee I don’t always feel like I belong at times—gives me a place and a purpose,” Pappas says. She attends at least three bag decorating sessions per month at Heart of Dinner’s Lower East Side volunteer site.

Hong Kong native Zoe Lau, who works part-time with Heart of Dinner as a volunteer communications coordinator, speaks fluent Cantonese and Mandarin and spends several hours every week calling elder beneficiaries to confirm their weekly deliveries in their native languages. She began attending weekly bag decorating sessions in New York City during the pandemic to feel closer to her grandmother in Hong Kong, who she was unable to visit due to COVID-19 travel restrictions.

“Since I couldn’t fly back to see her, I went in every Wednesday as much as I could, keeping in mind that if my grandma didn’t have anyone around to look after her, I would be very upset,” Lau says. “I hoped we could be those other grandchildren for these seniors.”

To see Heart of Dinner in action, check out this video on their Instagram.

With Wildfires Raging in LA, Heart of Dinner Answers the Call

Founders Moonlynn Tsai (left) and Yin Chang (bottom right) with volunteers in Los Angeles, where Heart of Dinner has delivered more than 300 care packages to elders after the devastating wildfires. (Photo courtesy of Dinner)
Founders Moonlynn Tsai (left) and Yin Chang (bottom right) with volunteers in Los Angeles, where Heart of Dinner has delivered more than 300 care packages to Asian elders after the devastating wildfires. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

 

In January, Chang and Tsai were on their way to the San Diego airport to return to New York City after visiting family for the holidays. Then the news spread about the catastrophic wildfires unfolding across Los Angeles.

 

“It was like this déjà vu moment,” Chang says. “It brought us right back to [the pandemic in] 2020. We had the same thought: ‘Who is taking care of folks like our grandparents and aging parents who can’t always speak the language to ask for help or to get the resources they need?’”

 

They canceled their flights and drove two hours north to L.A., taking up temporary residence to mobilize recovery efforts. Without knowing who the recipients would be, they began decorating as many gift bags as possible, even pulling all-nighters to make sure they had sufficient supply.

 

As they did during the pandemic, Chang and Tsai canvassed local shelters and senior centers and scoured social media to find elderly Asian victims in need. Through a GoFund Me page, they learned of an elderly couple whose house burned down in the Altadena fires and contacted Allyson Eng, their granddaughter, who organized the fundraiser. After’s Eng’s grandparents lost their two-story, three-bedroom home near Eaton Canyon, where they lived since the 1980s, she raised almost $15,000 to help them rebuild.

 

Without a place to live, the grandparents were forced to crowd into Eng’s parents’ modest bungalow in nearby Duarte, along with her uncle and his family, who also lost their apartment in the wildfires. “Our house gets pretty crowded when there’s six or seven of us staying there at one time,” Eng says.

 

Allyson Eng with her grandmother Joan after she received a Heart of Dinner delivery in LA this month. Joan and her husband Joseph lost their home in the Altadena wildfires. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

Allyson Eng with her grandmother Joan after she received a Heart of Dinner delivery in L.A. this month. (Photo courtesy of Heart of Dinner)

 

Her 82-year-old grandmother Joan used to spend most of her time in the kitchen of the home she lost in the fire, warming its white-tiled walls with the steam of her cooking. When the Heart of Dinner deliveries began arriving, she was delighted to find her bags filled with so many familiar Asian ingredients like bok choy and Chinese noodles, which she used to make chow mein with shrimp, eggs, and scallions for the grandchildren. Even Eng’s 88-year-old grandfather Joseph, who rarely cooks anymore, used the ingredients to prepare fried rice with greens, topped with ha mai (dried shrimp) and lap cheong (Chinese sausage).

 

Long after the wildfires were contained, Chang and Tsai continued to gather local friends to decorate bags and load produce and dry goods from Asian grocery stores like H Mart and Mitsuwa into the trunk of their hatchback. Leaning on their years of New York City experience, they phoned elderly recipients to coordinate delivery routes, sometimes as often as three times a week, eventually staging their operations at a friend’s art studio in the heart of the city. They sourced culturally appropriate prepared meals such as Cantonese-style roast duck and jajangmyeon, Korean noodles with fermented black bean sauce, from purveyors in the Los Angeles area like 99 Ranch Market and Paik’s Noodle.

 

Within months, the small team of 10 friends and volunteers delivered over 350 personalized gift bags to displaced elders from the South Bay to San Gabriel Valley.

 

But the work is far from finished. The couple has returned to California this month to resume deliveries, with the goal of reaching 1,000 total care packages for displaced seniors by the summer’s end.

 

“As we’re talking to more elders, they need long-term support, so it’s important for us to remain committed,” Tsai says. “For elders who have lost everything and are completely displaced, we want to make sure to provide them hope so they don’t feel alone or like they’ve lost community or love around them.”

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]]> Everything You Know About the Dietary Guidelines Is Wrong https://civileats.com/2025/06/02/everything-you-know-about-the-dietary-guidelines-is-wrong/ https://civileats.com/2025/06/02/everything-you-know-about-the-dietary-guidelines-is-wrong/#comments Mon, 02 Jun 2025 08:00:28 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=64851 “Are we redoing the food pyramid?” Kelly asked, in one exchange. “We’re redoing the food pyramid,” Makary confirmed, with gusto. “Thank God!” Kelly replied. However, the food pyramid—once used as a visual aid to convey the federal government’s dietary guidelines to Americans—was retired in 2011, nearly 15 years ago. In addition, the FDA is not […]

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In April, two weeks after being sworn in as the Commissioner of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Marty Makary sat down for an interview with conservative podcaster Megyn Kelly. Over the course of an hour, the food pyramid came up several times.

“Are we redoing the food pyramid?” Kelly asked, in one exchange.

“We’re redoing the food pyramid,” Makary confirmed, with gusto.

“Thank God!” Kelly replied.

However, the food pyramid—once used as a visual aid to convey the federal government’s dietary guidelines to Americans—was retired in 2011, nearly 15 years ago. In addition, the FDA is not in charge of developing those guidelines. Every five years, an office within the Department of Health and Human Services (HHS), called the Office of Disease Prevention and Health Promotion, works with the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) to update and release them.

The exchange on the podcast episode is one of many examples of how most Americans might be unfamiliar with the details of the dietary guidelines. And while the Trump administration is promising to completely overhaul them, misinformation about what the guidelines say and the process that creates them is only getting worse.

One thing is clear: Given the high rates of diet-related diseases in the U.S., a lot is at stake in this update of the dietary guidelines.

HHS Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. is now in the driver’s seat when it comes to developing the 2025 guidelines, due out later this year. Kennedy is passionate about encouraging Americans to eat healthier and has said he’s expediting the process as a result. In the past, however, he has expressed support for dietary advice that does not align with the current scientific consensus—like cutting out seed oils and subbing in beef tallow—and many are worried the guidelines will be altered to fit those beliefs.

One thing is clear: Given the high rates of diet-related diseases in the U.S., a lot is at stake.

“These science-based recommendations aren’t just the nutrition guidance that doctors are giving patients or that policymakers are using in this way that maybe affects your life every once in a while,” said Grace Chamberlin, a policy associate at the Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI) who focuses specifically on the federal dietary guidelines. “They are actually directly impacting the food that is offered in programs that serve 1 in 4 Americans.”

The Broad Reach of the Dietary Guidelines

Chamberlin was referring to food assistance programs like the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), the Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children (WIC), and school meals.

While altering the dietary guidelines does not trigger immediate changes to those programs, federal employees rely on the guidelines when they update related regulations.

For example, Kennedy and his allies have repeatedly announced their desire to use the guidelines to improve the nutrition of school meals. That’s possible because in 2010 President Barack Obama, with the help of first lady Michelle Obama’s advocacy, signed the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act into law. The law required school meal standards to reflect the dietary guidelines and led to more than a decade of rulemaking at the USDA to make that happen.

The guidelines also inform the Thrifty Food Plan, which the USDA uses to determine how much money a typical family would need to maintain a healthy diet. The Plan informs SNAP benefit amounts.

Experts said dieticians and other healthcare professionals also use the guidelines when working with patients, and Chamberlin said their influence may be even broader. “They can be a huge leverage point for increasing nutrition and nutrition awareness in the population, but also changing what we grow in this country, how our food system works, and what our food system prioritizes,” she said.

How the Dietary Guidelines Are Created

In May, in two separate appearances in front of Congressional committees, Kennedy said his HHS is rewriting guidelines passed down by the Biden administration. “The dietary guidelines that President Biden gave us are 453 pages long,” he told senators.

In fact, the last edition, the 2020 dietary guidelines, came out during Trump’s first term. Under Biden, employees at HHS and the USDA started the process of developing the 2025 guidelines. They formed the scientific advisory committee, which is tasked with reviewing new evidence and then delivering a scientific report the agencies use to write the guidelines.

The document Kennedy was likely referring to is that report, which was delivered to HHS and the USDA last December. Over the course of two years, 20 experts volunteered their time to review new scientific evidence on specific topics of interest identified by the agencies.

At a food policy event at lobbying firm ArentFox Schiff in April, the staff members overseeing the process at the federal agencies said that the committee completed 28 systematic reviews and reviewed almost 2,000 new scientific articles in addition to analyzing many other sources of data during that time.

Teresa Fung, a professor of nutrition at Simmons University and adjunct professor of nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, served on the committee. Fung said that during the busiest time, she was volunteering up to 10 hours a week reviewing data.

After the scientific advisory committee delivers its report, HHS and the USDA begin to write the actual guidelines. The agencies swap leadership of the process each time the guidelines are renewed; this time, HHS—and Kennedy—are in charge.

Typically, staff members write the guidelines and then share them with the secretaries, who have final say. But no HHS Secretary has ever criticized the guidelines or promised to alter the structure in such a significant way, and it’s unclear if the customary protocol is being followed. When asked about the process by an audience member at the ArentFox event, all that HHS staff would say was that they’re “working closely” with the new leadership.

Corporate Influence Over the Dietary Guidelines

During the hearings, Kennedy also told lawmakers that the document he received from the Biden administration—likely the scientific advisory committee report—was “clearly written by industry.” The Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) Commission Report released at the end of May says the guidelines have a history “of being unduly influenced by corporate interests,” and cites a 2022 study that found that 95 percent of the 20 advisory committee members in 2020 had ties to the food industry. Most had multiple relationships; only one had none. (Reporting has since found several errors with the MAHA Commission citations.)

Food companies have long attempted to influence the guidelines, and over the past several decades, the number of committee members with food industry ties grew. However, an analysis of the current 2025 committee, done by advocacy organization U.S. Right to Know (USRTK), found that this time around, only nine of 20 members had significant food industry links. USRTK identified no industry ties for seven members, which they described as “signs of progress.”

In response to criticism, the USDA and HHS also made changes to increase transparency, although mandatory disclosure of conflicts of interest is still not required.

Chamberlin said that the committee’s work is now the most transparent part of the process. “If that whole group gets together, it has to be a public meeting. If more than a few of them are talking, it has to be viewed by the public. They have to post their protocols. They have to post their preliminary findings. They have to post their final report publicly,” she said. “What’s not as transparent is the stage we’re in right now, which is where the secretaries are actually writing the guidelines. Historically, that’s when interference has come into play.”

For example, the 2015 committee recommended stronger language on cutting back on red meat and processed meats that was ultimately not included in the guidelines written by the agencies, after significant lobbying by the meat industry and Congressional pushback led by Republicans.

“What’s not as transparent is the stage we’re in right now, which is where the secretaries are actually writing the guidelines. Historically, that’s when interference has come into play.”

This January, with the advisory committee report in hand, HHS and USDA employees held a public meeting to take comments on the report before they began the process of writing the actual guidelines.

Seventy-nine individuals spoke at the meeting, including plenty of concerned private citizens and advocates for healthy eating. But 32 of the speakers, about 40 percent, had obvious, direct links to the food industry. Meat companies sent the most representatives by far: 15 of the speakers represented beef, egg, dairy, and other meat interests.

Representatives of the Beef Checkoff and the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association (NCBA), a contractor to the Checkoff, both spoke, and the NCBA also submitted written comments of its own and on behalf of the Beef Checkoff. In its comments, the organization pushed back hard on provisions in the guidelines that might recommend swapping in beans, peas, and lentils for servings of red meat.

“This substitution, and the anti-red meat language scattered throughout the report, is nonsensical given beef’s proven nutritional value and clear place in a healthy diet,” it read.

Similar Nutrition Controversies, New Attention

Meat companies have long held sway in D.C., but they might be sensing that this time around, they’ve got an even bigger chance to log some wins.

One of the longest-running disagreements in nutrition is the role of red meat, and particularly saturated fat, in healthy diets. Trendy high-meat diets are continually rebranded—Atkins became South Beach became Paleo became Keto and Whole 30—but all the while, most nutrition scientists maintain that the body of evidence shows limiting red meat and saturated fat is a healthier dietary pattern for most people.

Harvard professor Fung was part of the chronic disease subcommittee tasked with looking at evidence on this front. Rather than just focusing on reducing red meat, the researchers tackled a specific, more nuanced question. Because every dietary choice involves a swap, cutting a serving of red meat might mean adding a serving of chicken or fish or beans. So, they wanted to know: Does the substitute matter? For instance, is tofu a better choice than beef but not as good as fish?

What they found is that any swap in place of red meat produces a health benefit in terms of reducing heart-disease risk. That led to one of the December report’s most significant recommendations: Change the guidelines to promote more plant protein and less animal protein, especially red meat and processed meats.

“It does not mean that somebody cannot eat red meat at all,” Fung said. “But if you look at the science, the good science especially, what it is pointing towards is plant protein.”

There is an entire world of health-conscious people, however, who believe that conclusion is wrong and point to high-meat diets as the best solution for weight loss and chronic disease prevention. Many of those people are prominent in Kennedy’s MAHA movement: At a MAHA roundtable last fall, podcaster Mikhaila Fuller talked about curing her multiple health issues through an all-red-meat diet, which she now promotes as The Lion Diet.

At the launch of the MAHA Institute in May, Montana rancher Bryan Mussard told attendees he’d been talking to Kennedy since last summer about the topic. “I sent him so many text messages and emails on saturated fat that when I met him for the first time last September, I just introduced myself as ‘saturated fat,’ and he knew who I was,” he said.

There is an entire world of health-conscious people, who believe recommendations to eat more plant-based proteins are wrong; they point to high-meat diets as the best solution for weight loss and chronic disease prevention.

Seed oils present a similar challenge. Many in the MAHA movement, including Kennedy himself, have pointed to seed oils—soybean, corn, safflower, sunflower, cottonseed, and canola—as a likely cause of various health issues. The MAHA Commission Report cites as potentially problematic the change from animal-based sources of fat like butter and lard toward industrially produced seed oils.

“Industrial refining reduces micronutrients, such as vitamin E and phytosterols. Moreover, these oils contribute to an imbalanced omega-6/omega-3 ratio, a topic of ongoing research for its potential role in inflammation,” it reads. Nearly all experts agree that American diets contain too much omega-6 vs. omega-3 oils and that minimal processing of oils is better, but mainstream nutritionists say the science isn’t there to warn against seed oils specifically.

Nutrition professor and author Marion Nestle, who served on the 1995 committee and has been a frequent critic of the guidelines since, wrote recently that while it seems like a given that Americans consume seed oils in excess, in fried and junk foods, “I cannot find convincing data that seed oils are any worse for health than any other high-calorie food, and the evidence for their benefits as compared to animal fats seems strong and consistent.”

Perhaps the most anticipated aspect of the guidelines is what, if anything, they’ll say about ultra-processed foods. Of all the MAHA movement’s goals, Kennedy has pushed hardest, so far, on getting additives out of the food supply and focusing attention on ultra-processed foods as a primary source of Americans’ poor health.

His focus has been so intense that the leading researcher, Kevin Hall, at the National Institutes of Health (NIH), who was responsible for establishing some of the strongest evidence of ultra-processed foods’ health harms, left the agency because he felt like Kennedy’s HHS wouldn’t allow him to communicate unbiased study results unless they continued to back that conclusion up, regardless of what the research found. (HHS spokespeople have disputed his assertion.)

According to the law, changes to the dietary guidelines must be based on what is called a “preponderance of evidence.” The committee conducted a systematic review of research on the relationship between eating ultra-processed foods and risk of weight gain and obesity. The researchers did conclude that diets high in ultra-processed foods were associated with more body fat, higher body mass indexes, and a higher risk of obesity in adults, with a similar finding for children.

But it rated the evidence as “limited.” Since that didn’t meet the standard of a “preponderance of evidence,” the committee declined to recommend limits on ultra-processed foods in the guidelines.

Fung said that makes sense, since the definition of ultra-processed foods was only developed in 2009. In her mind, it still needs work. And these changes take time: It took ages for nutrition science to evolve to recognize healthy fats instead of cautioning against all fat in the diet, for example.

“It is a hot-button topic, and people want answers,” CSPI’s Chamberlin said. “We want to know what’s going on and what’s making us sick. But honestly, the advisory committee not being able to put forth a strong recommendation is a testament to how scientifically rigorous their process is. Their guidance can only be as strong as the underlying science.”

Not everyone agrees with that. Nestle, for one, who is also a stickler about the science, thinks it’s high time to tell Americans to eat fewer ultra-processed foods.

Either way, members of the Trump administration have mischaracterized how the advisory committee evaluated ultra-professed foods—and how the current guidelines currently handle them. In the Megyn Kelly interview, for example, Makary said, “No longer are we going to say, ‘You have these calories, it doesn’t matter how you get them, it doesn’t matter if it’s all ultra-processed foods.’”

“We do not need the term ultra-processed to help us differentiate between healthy versus unhealthy foods.”

In fact, the 2020 guidelines recommended “nutrient-dense” foods, which means it’s not just calories that matter.

In the end, Fung said the best dietary advice hasn’t changed much over time. Based on the review, she’d give this advice: “Eat more fruits and vegetables, whole grains. Eat a wide variety of foods. Mostly plant-based, especially the proteins, and choose whole foods and minimally processed [foods].”

She—and pretty much any nutrition expert—will recommend sticking most to whole and minimally processed foods. “We do not need the term ultra-processed to help us differentiate between healthy versus unhealthy foods,” she says.

Kennedy and those around him see it differently. They want to emphasize the ultra-processed nature of the foods. “Ultra-processed food is comprised of three ingredients primarily that did not exist 120 years ago,” said Kennedy advisor Calley Means at the MAHA Institute launch, citing refined grains, added sugar, and seed oils.

Some experts, including Nestle, disagree with many of the nitty-gritty details but understand where the arguments and frustration are coming from: She’s been pointing to corporate influence on dietary advice for decades, while others have documented how a food system driven by corporate profit transformed the way Americans eat in less than a century, while chronic disease rates ticked up.

It can start to feel like splitting hairs, but the tension between what conclusions can be drawn from the observable reality at hand, the scientific evidence available, and the desire to make change right away has existed for as long as nutrition has been studied. It’s hard to do controlled trials that isolate what humans eat. It’s hard to boil down complicated studies into simple advice on which foods to eat for optimal health. Kennedy doesn’t seem to agree.

“We are going to have four-page dietary guidelines that tell people, essentially, ‘Eat whole food,’ ” he told members of Congress in May. “ ‘Eat the food that’s good for you.’ ”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2025/06/02/everything-you-know-about-the-dietary-guidelines-is-wrong/feed/ 2 Sean Sherman Expands His Vision for Decolonizing the US Food System https://civileats.com/2025/05/20/sean-sherman-expands-his-vision-for-decolonizing-the-us-food-system/ Tue, 20 May 2025 08:00:46 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=64558 Sherman, an Oglala Lakota tribal member with an unassuming demeanor, a soft smile, and a signature long braid hanging down his back, has endeavored to revitalize Native American food traditions since 2014, when he founded The Sioux Chef, a catering and educational enterprise. His focus is on “decolonized” food—made without Eurocentric ingredients such as beef, […]

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Sean Sherman walks through an expansive commissary kitchen in South Minneapolis, his eyes lighting up with excitement. He isn’t taking in the kitchen as it is—dormant but well-equipped with an industrial smoker, a walk-in sausage-making area, and plentiful storage space. Instead, he’s seeing the future of his Meals for Native Institutions initiative, when the space is up, running, and realizing a long-term vision to introduce more Indigenous foods into the American food system.

Sherman, an Oglala Lakota tribal member with an unassuming demeanor, a soft smile, and a signature long braid hanging down his back, has endeavored to revitalize Native American food traditions since 2014, when he founded The Sioux Chef, a catering and educational enterprise. His focus is on “decolonized” food—made without Eurocentric ingredients such as beef, pork, chicken, dairy, wheat flour,  and cane sugar—most notably at his acclaimed Minneapolis restaurant, Owamni.

“We’re scaling up our efforts almost simultaneously in Minnesota and Montana, and the goal is that we’re developing a model that works anywhere.”

There he’s become known for cedar-braising bison (flavoring meat with sprigs of the coniferous tree), chopping up plant medicines like ramps, morels, and sweet potatoes, and finishing off dishes with seasonings like sumac and sage. His Indigenous Food Lab (IFL), also in Minneapolis, is an incubator and training kitchen where Native chefs and entrepreneurs can access equipment and information from Sherman and other knowledge keepers.

Sherman still cooks at his restaurant, but these days, he has his sights set on a triad of initiatives that bring him closer to the goal of making the U.S. food system more inclusive and indeed more Indigenous.  The opening later this year of  an Indigenous Food Lab satellite in Bozeman, Montana, is part of that vision. So too is his cookbook Turtle Island (Clarkson Potter), which I coauthored, covering Native foodways across North America.

But in this moment, Sherman is most excited about Meals for Native Institutions, which will provide schools, hospitals, penitentiaries, and community centers with large-format Indigenous foods.

“This model has such immense potential to have a huge impact on the way we eat, especially for kids and elders—and really everyone,” he says about the larger efforts to decolonize institutional food.

Realizing a Vision

This year feels like a full-circle moment for Sherman, who grew up eating government commodity foods—think canned beef and neon-orange blocks of cheese—on South Dakota’s Pine Ridge Reservation. That tribal community has endured some of the most devastating impacts of European colonization and U.S. policies on Indigenous cultures, practices, and foodways, including the government-sanctioned slaughter of the all-important bison.

Sean Sherman in Kitchen 2 Credit BIll Phelps Studio @billphelpsstudio

Sherman cooking at the Indigenous Food Lab incubator and training kitchen in Minneapolis. (Photo credit: Bill Phelps Studio)

Today, Pine Ridge has some of the highest poverty rates in the nation and lowest life expectancies in the world. For Sherman, a TIME 100 honoree and three-time James Beard Award winner, a return to Indigenous foods can address some of those marked inequities.

“Maybe down the road we’ll even be able to get some of these Native food products into the commodity food program, which so many rural Indigenous communities like the Navajo Nation and Pine Ridge still utilize today,” he added.

His mission to revitalize Indigenous foodways began with a yearning to learn more about his people’s food while also curtailing the marked health inequities tribal communities experience, including disproportionate rates of obesitytype 2 diabetes, and heart disease. He’s done this through his nonprofit, North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NATIFS), and through Owamni, and now he’ll have additional ways to move toward these goals.

Meals for Native Institutions will be housed in a newly acquired space that Sherman has named Wóyute Thipi (meaning “food building” in Dakota), situated along what’s known as the American Indian Cultural Corridor on Minneapolis’ Franklin Avenue, a cultural district home to several Indigenous-owned businesses, including a coffee shop and an art gallery.

The building will serve as NATIFS’ headquarters and feature a counter-service Indigenous BBQ restaurant dubbed ŠHOTÁ—the Dakota word for smoke—that’s expected to open later this year. Like Owamni, that public-facing eatery is meant to bring more meaningful attention to his big-picture goal.

“There is a huge need for culturally appropriate foods, especially in schools and programs serving Native people.”

Although the institutional foods initiative is still in the early stages, with Sherman actively fundraising to get it off the ground this summer, he foresees the well-equipped 4,000-square-foot commissary kitchen churning out a plethora of simply prepared, nutritious Indigenous foods. Early recipes include wild rice pilaf with dried berries; baked tepary beans lightly sweetened with maple syrup; and a three sisters soup that brings together nixtamalized pima corn, tepary beans, and delicata squash.

Much like the fare served at Owamni and planned for ŠHOTÁ, the meals created for schools and hospitals will be devoid of ingredients introduced by Europeans during colonization. Sherman’s team is working closely with a nutritionist to ensure recipes will meet established USDA nutritional standards for those settings.

“We know that the menus designed for the American school system aren’t great,” he said. “For example, pizza is somehow considered a perfect food because it covers the meat, grain, dairy, and fruit and vegetable requirements all in one swoop, but we know that pizza isn’t a perfect food for schoolkids. We’re not trying to replace the entire lunch program; we’re trying to create culturally specific components so there are options to build out menus using these recipes with at least one ingredient coming from an Indigenous producer.”

Local Indigenous advocates are cheering Sherman on as he expands his purview to better serve the robust Native community in the Twin Cities, estimated at more than 35,000 individuals. “There is a huge need for culturally appropriate foods, especially in schools and programs serving Native people, and I’m grateful Sean is supporting this with his new business,” said Indigenous Food Network Program Coordinator Kateri Tuttle. “There will always be a need to continue to expand services that provide our families and community with these important foods.”

Sean Sherman Outside 1 Credit Bill Phelps Studio @billphelpsstudio

Sherman wants to introduce more Indigenous foods into the American food system. (Photo credit: Bill Phelps Studio)

As much as this is about feeding people, it’s also about uplifting Native entrepreneurs and businesses. To that end, Sherman estimates that NATIFS currently funnels some $700,000 a year to Indigenous producers and farmers. He only see that growing from here.

“We want to ensure there’s always money going toward Indigenous food production,” he said. “I think we could probably double or triple our current purchasing power with this move into institutional food, where we’ll eventually be creating thousands of servings a day. So we’re not only addressing a need, but we’re also helping create a more sustainable system.”

Muckleshoot nutrition educator and food sovereignty advocate Val Segrest, who has collaborated with Sherman on past initiatives, emphasized the importance of initiatives like this.

“Efforts like this are a powerful reclaiming of space [and] story, and strengthen food sovereignty,” she said in an email. “By establishing Indigenous-owned food hubs in the heart of our communities, we restore pathways for cultural knowledge, health, and economic vitality to thrive. This is more than a building or initiative—it’s a beacon for Indigenous food futures, rooted in our values and nourished by our ancestors’ vision.”

Sherman is also eager to launch the satellite IFL in Bozeman, developed in partnership with Montana State University’s Buffalo Nations Food System Initiative, the Montana Indigenous Food Sovereignty Initiative, and the Human Resource Development Council of Southwest Montana.

Set to open this fall, it will be located in the Human Resources Development Council of Southwest Montana building and feature an incubator kitchen, a classroom, and a large warehouse designed to replicate the model he has developed in Minneapolis. Similar satellite IFLs are in the works in Rapid City, South Dakota, and Anchorage, Alaska—all intended to empower regional Indigenous chefs, entrepreneurs, community members, and organizations with professional equipment, culinary knowledge, and other support as needed.

For Sherman’s collaborators in Montana, it’s a welcome development. “First and foremost, the Indigenous Foods Lab is about revitalizing the kinship economy for the well-being of the people and the land; in the current climate, this work is more important than ever,” said Jill Falcon Ramaker, PhD (Bishkane Mishtadim Ikwe), director of the Buffalo Nations Food System Initiative.

“In the past, our [Native] food system was sustainable for more than 13,000 years because of the networked work of Native people and reliance on the gifts of the land or our older-than-human relatives,” she said. “As we return to the land in a place-based food system, we must rebuild our community amongst Native nations in the region.”

But the impact of the forthcoming IFL goes beyond just the area’s tribal communities, explained KayAnn Miller, co-executive director of the Montana Partnership to End Childhood Hunger. She pointed to alarming state statistics that she hoped the IFL could help curtail: that about two in five Montana residents have two or more chronic diseases, and that about a third of Montana children have at least one chronic disease.

pieces of cooked elk on a white plate with colorful edible greens and flowers on top

An entree from Owamni, Sean Sherman’s award-winning restaurant, featuring elk. (Photo credit: Scott Streble).

“As we know, chronic diseases often have a dietary component, which means we need to eat a whole lot better in Montana,” said Miller. “Indigenous foods—which tend to be whole and healthy with an emphasis on lean proteins and fruits and vegetables—are right in line with what we all need to eat to reduce health challenges like heart disease and diabetes, which are two of the top 10 causes of death in our state. I see the Indigenous Food Lab as a way for all of us to learn more about these good foods, how to prepare and cook them, and how to grow and eat more of them.”

For Sherman, it’s an opportunity to address the inequities he grew up with back on the Pine Ridge Reservation while also uplifting local Native communities.

“We’re scaling up our efforts almost simultaneously in Minnesota and Montana, and the goal is that we’re developing a model that works anywhere—the Dakotas, Alaska, Hawaii,” he said. “Not only does this give Indigenous communities a platform to talk about the true histories of their cultures and these lands, but it’s also building skills and creating jobs within our communities. This is the kind of food sovereignty we’ve always been working toward.”

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]]> MAHA Supporters Form New Organization to Boost RFK’s Goals in D.C. https://civileats.com/2025/05/16/maha-supporters-form-new-organization-to-boost-rfks-goals-in-d-c/ Fri, 16 May 2025 19:12:26 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=64552 “There are thousands, tens, hundreds of thousands of people around the country who care deeply about this, who want their children to be healthier, who care about their families, who want to improve the system,” said Mark Gorton, president of the institute. “The MAHA Institute is serving the function of helping to coordinate and channel […]

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Supporters of the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) movement gathered in Washington, D.C. yesterday to launch a new organization, the MAHA Institute, dedicated to changing and championing federal policies that could impact food ingredients, agricultural inputs, and overall health.

“There are thousands, tens, hundreds of thousands of people around the country who care deeply about this, who want their children to be healthier, who care about their families, who want to improve the system,” said Mark Gorton, president of the institute. “The MAHA Institute is serving the function of helping to coordinate and channel the energy of all of these people around the country and connect them with people in the government.”

Many of the people in the room were the same individuals and groups that supported Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s presidential campaign and then helped propel Donald Trump into office after Kennedy aligned himself with Trump.

Gorton and his partner Tony Lyons, now the MAHA Institute’s chairman, previously co-founded a Super PAC dedicated to supporting Kennedy. Lyons is the founder of Skyhorse Publishing and a close ally of right-wing media personality Steve Bannon. Other speakers included Mary Holland, CEO of Children’s Health Defense, the advocacy organization founded by Kennedy; Zen Honeycutt, founder of Moms Across America; and Montana rancher Bryan Mussard. Attendees included regenerative farmers, student activists, and school lunch reformers.

In addition to concerns about vaccine schedules and ingredients, speakers pointed to a wide range of food-related issues they believe are contributing to America’s chronic disease epidemic: genetically modified foods, pesticide exposures, seed oils, sugar, and other ingredients in processed foods. “It’s not about vaccines or drugs or foods, it’s about the toxins that are in them,” Lyons said. Several also described a situation in which the federal government has hidden information on those toxins at the behest of agriculture, pesticide, and food companies—an assertion that mixes the very real influence those companies have in D.C. with overarching conspiracy theory thinking— and said they trusted the Trump administration to turn that ship around.

In an interview with Civil Eats, Gorton said the MAHA Institute will work to connect people working on the same issues and do more traditional lobbying on legislation. And he said they’ll support the work of agencies like the Department of Health and Human Services (HHS), which Kennedy now runs, in achieving MAHA goals. “The number of actual, true MAHA supporters at the top of these agencies is maybe 75 people across an HHS that has 60,000 employees, and their job is unbelievably daunting, because these bureaucracies are highly resistant to change,” he said.

When asked about whether some Trump administration actions, such as the EPA rolling back limits on ‘forever chemicals’ in drinking water and the USDA canceling a program that helped local farms get fresh produce into school meals, run counter to the movement’s goals, he dismissed any contradiction and said he was “extremely happy” with the administration so far. “I think there really is a commitment to the larger mission, and changing the government takes time,” he said.

Honeycutt, on the other hand, said she’d been disappointed in some Republican senators’ pushback against pesticide reforms after the MAHA movement supported their campaigns and that restoring regulations on forever chemicals in drinking water is incredibly important to her. “We’re shocked and dismayed that these Republican elected officials and some officials within the EPA are going against Trump’s call to make America healthy again, and we hope that they will see that this is a massive step backwards and that they will listen to the people who are calling for better policies on these toxic chemicals that are clearly harming Americans and making us sick.”

A group of 79 Republicans recently sent a letter urging Kennedy and other agency heads not to recommend restrictions on pesticide use in the MAHA Commission report, expected to be released on May 22.

Calley Means, a MAHA movement fixture who is now a special advisor to Kennedy within HHS, alluded to that tension in his remarks. “As the wins start stacking up—and they will be stacking up at an increasing pace—I can tell you that there’s a thing, an energy around this town, around the country, to divide the MAGA and MAHA movements, but it’s not going to happen,” he said. “This is a powerful revolutionary coalition of people that are going to change American politics.”

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